A Journey Through Ribeira Sacra
We journeyed to Ribeira Sacra in October 2024, just as Galicia was being lashed by the remnants of an Atlantic hurricane. Through wind and rain, we first crossed the Miño, one of the two rivers that give this region its name, which translates to “sacred bank.” The vines along the Miño, which then flows west to form the border with Portugal, cover rolling slopes of granite based soils along the river. Though the view was compromised by the weather, the brief glimpses through the window were otherworldly. East of the Miño and north of the Sil, the 2nd river, lies an unremarkable plateau with farmland and few vineyards—and it is here that the Guímaro winery humbly resides.
Pedro, winery owner and gracious host, greeted us warmly. We began our tasting with the 2024s still fermenting in their vessels, then moved to samples from barrels, and finally to bottles. His vines are planted mostly along the Sil, a steep, dramatic canyon with vineyards clinging to slate soils. A surprise of the tasting was the old vine white wine, one of just two whites he crafts. Not enough is produced to make it to the USA market, unfortunately, but this is a stunning textural white worth seeking out. The whites are based on Godello but often field blends, while the reds are Mencia-based with other indigenous varieties.
After our tasting, we drove the short three miles to the Sil, and the descent into the canyon was absolutely breathtaking. I knew what to expect but still could never have expected the awesomeness before us. Obvious comparisons can be drawn to the Mosel, with its similarly steep slate slopes, but the Sil offers a unique character. Unlike the Mosel, where villages and wineries line the riverbanks, the Sil’s gorge feels wild and untouched—narrow, winding, and secluded.
Guímaro crafts exquisite regional blends that are surprisingly affordable, especially given the immense challenges of farming these vertiginous slopes. However, the true gems are the site-specific wines from their old-vine parcels. The differences between these wines are striking: "A Ponte" delivers purity and elegance, sourced from an upper parcel, while "Meixamán", from the middle slopes, shows greater weight and darker fruit. Those are two of a handful of cru wines that stood out to us in an incredible lineup of wines.
Our only regret from the entire trip was not spending more time in Ribeira Sacra. This region is a viticultural treasure of the Iberian Peninsula and well worth the journey for wine lovers.
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