Burgundy Club: March 2025

Welcome to the inaugural Burgundy Club release for the odd months! For those who are used to seeing Burgundy in the even months, we're adding a 2nd club with different selections, and kicking things off with a region I find endlessly fascinating: Marsannay. As the northernmost village appellation in the Côte de Nuits, Marsannay is somewhat of a hidden gem, and this month we're shining a light on its unique character with two very different wines.

A note on this month's wines: Both of these will be making an appearance in the original even month Burgundy club later this year - I was able to get enough of each to use them in both before the odd month club fills up. This will be uncommon going forward, but both of these wines are iconic and typically hard to find, so I'm beyond excited to get them to all Burgundy club members this year. 

Marsannay is a dynamic and evolving appellation, often overlooked in favor of its more famous southern neighbors, but that's a mistake. This village is buzzing with energy, and on the cusp of some exciting changes as certain vineyard sites are considered for elevation to Premier Cru status (currently no 1er crus exist in Marsannay). Uniquely in the Côte de Nuits, Marsannay produces all three colors of Burgundy: red, white, and rosé. While historically known for its rosé, the reds and whites are increasingly capturing attention for their quality and terroir expression. The soils here are primarily limestone and marl, imparting a distinct mineral edge to the wines. Historically planted with Gamay, Marsannay has almost entirely transitioned to Pinot Noir, and producers are increasingly focused on showcasing the potential of this appellation. Besides Marsannay itself, the neighboring villages of Couchey (south) and Chenôve (north) are able to use the Marsannay name. Two of the leading lights in Marsannay, and featured in this month's release, are Bruno Clair and Sylvain Pataille.

White (Rosé!) Wine: Bruno Clair Marsannay Rosé 2023

Yes, you read that right, white wine in the form of rosé! And when it's from Bruno Clair in Marsannay, you know it's going to be something special. Bruno Clair's Marsannay Rosé is a wine with a story. It pays homage to Bruno’s grandfather, Joseph Clair, who pioneered Pinot Noir rosé in Marsannay after returning from World War I in 1919 - his delicate and fruity rosé became a sensation in Dijon. The domaine sources fruit for this rosé from several southeast-facing vineyards – Les Roseys, Les Boivins, and Les Étalles. Bruno Clair is meticulous in the vineyards, practicing sustainable and near-organic viticulture. For the rosé, they utilize a blend of techniques: half the Pinot Noir is directly pressed, while the other half undergoes a brief 3-4 day maceration to extract color and aroma, before fermenting with indigenous yeasts and aging for 10 months in neutral oak or stainless steel. This touch of skin contact adds structure and elegant Pinot Noir character to what is already a beautifully fresh and vibrant rosé.

Note on the vintage: While not apparent in rosé form, 2023 is showing great promise for reds from a warm vintage. The wines are slightly more blue fruited than those from 2022 and slightly deeper, approaching the massive wines of the 2020 vintage but with more balance. We'll be seeing plenty of 2023 wines in the next few years in the club, but for now the reds are nowhere near their ideal drinking window.  This rosé is a fun preview of what's to come. 

Red Wine: Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Le Chapitre 2021

Moving on to red Burgundy, we have Sylvain Pataille's Marsannay ‘Le Chapitre’. Sylvain Pataille is, in my opinion, one of Burgundy’s most compelling figures. Beyond his own domaine, he consults for some of the region's most respected estates, and is a true leader in organic and biodynamic farming. His ‘Le Chapitre’ Marsannay comes from the lieu-dit of Le Chapitre, a site just north of Marsannay in Chenôve, but still within the Marsannay appellation.

This east-facing vineyard with gravelly, limestone soils is considered one of the top sites in the area – so much so that it was recently upgraded from regional Bourgogne to village Marsannay status in 2019! Pataille’s parcel within Le Chapitre is planted with a mix of vine ages, some dating back to the 1950s. In line with his philosophy, the winemaking is low intervention: 100% whole cluster fermentation with native yeasts, aging for 18 months in barrel, and minimal sulfur added only at bottling. This results in a Marsannay that truly reflects its terroir – expect a wine with vibrant energy, a distinct mineral backbone from the limestone soils, and a beautiful purity of Pinot Noir fruit.

See the location of Le Chapitre on the map:

Note on the Vintage: while I wouldn't recommend popping the 2022 version of this wine anytime soon, the 2021 is ready to drink right now. This vintage was cold and wet, and made Pinot Noir in a very classic Burgundy sense with loads of aromatics, soft tannins, and lower alcohol. While this wine is nowhere near past its prime, I find 2021 a vintage ideal to enjoy young, as the wines are so open already and don't have the concentration to age as long as a vintage like 2020 or 2022. 

Both of these Marsannay wines offer a glimpse into a dynamic and often underappreciated corner of Burgundy. I hope you enjoy discovering the unique character of Marsannay through these wines!