Piedmont Club: July 2025

A Piedmont club without Nebbiolo would be like a concert featuring only the new stuff and none of the hits. Well, today is all hits as we have a double Nebbiolo Piedmont club release! Our selections this month showcase two distinct approaches to Nebbiolo from the same area within the Langhe: a vibrant, staunchly traditional Nebbiolo d'Alba from Cascina Fontana and a modern-leaning Barolo from the legendary Elio Altare.

Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo 2022:

Let's begin with Cascina Fontana, located in the small village of Perno, just east of Monforte d'Alba. Mario Fontana is the sixth-generation steward of this family estate, where tradition meets meticulous farming practices. Fontana's wines are renowned for their authenticity, expressing Nebbiolo with purity and grace rather than brute strength. Up until a few years ago their Barolos were a bit of an insider's secret, but they have gained fame recently and become rather difficult to acquire. If you ever see one of the 3 Barolos on our shelf I highly recommend snagging one to age. 

Langhe Nebbiolo wines can sometimes be overlooked, situated as they are between the storied realms of Barolo and Barbaresco. However, savvy drinkers know these wines offer tremendous value, showcasing Nebbiolo’s aromatic charm and drinkability without requiring extended cellar aging. They are often grown within the Barolo or Barbaresco zones anyway. This wine comes from two vineyards: one in Castiglione Falletto at the center of the Barolo zone (Il Pozzo), and the other in Sinio, just east of Serralunga d'Alba and out of the zone. Don't forget, though, that the borders for what can be called Barolo were drawn in a much cooler climate than we have today back in 1933. Sinio's higher altitude and cooler climate could be considered an advantage in a hot, drought year like this 2022 vintage. 

Mario’s Nebbiolo d'Alba captures this perfectly: youthful yet complex, bright yet structured. Grown primarily in limestone-rich soils, the wine is aged traditionally—about 12 months in Slavonian oak botti with a few used barriques, allowing Nebbiolo's floral notes and bright cherry fruit to shine.

This is a wine you'll want to enjoy with lighter fare or even slightly chilled on a warm evening. It radiates classic Nebbiolo aromas—rose petals, cherry, and subtle hints of earth—with soft tannins and refreshing acidity. It's a friendly, approachable side of Piedmont, perfectly suited for summer sipping and a window into Cascina Fontana's traditional style. 

Elio Altare Barolo 2021:

Our second wine returns us to Barolo, specifically to La Morra, where the iconic Elio Altare winery continues to define the region’s modernist movement. Elio Altare himself revolutionized Barolo production back in the 1980s by introducing shorter fermentations, lower yields, and the use of French barriques. His methods initially sparked controversy among traditionalists, but today, Altare is celebrated for producing some of the most elegant, terroir-driven wines in Barolo.

Unlike more traditional, austere styles that may require decades to soften, Altare’s wines, though certainly capable of aging gracefully, are crafted for pleasure earlier in their lives. Expect notes of ripe cherry, raspberry, dried rose, and a whisper of sweet spice from judicious use of oak. The wine’s silky texture and refined tannin structure make it incredibly appealing now, yet those patient enough to cellar it will undoubtedly be rewarded.

This Barolo "Normale" is made from four crus spread throughout the Barolo zone. That is how Barolo was typically made until recent times, when the "Burgundy-ization" started seeing producers bottle single cru wines. Sarmassa in Barolo and Bricco Ambroggio in Roddi bring elegance and lift, while Ceretta in Serralunga adds tannins and power. 

Elio has since passed the torch to his daughter Silvia, who continues to honor his visionary practices while gently evolving the estate's style. Under Silvia’s care, the wines continue to convey the beauty and transparency that have long defined Altare. This Barolo is a superb representation of both their legacy and the elegance achievable in this revered corner of Piedmont. 

Given that this Barolo just touched down in the United States, I'd recommend waiting at least 2 months to pop it - and if doing so anytime this year definitely give it an hour in the decanter. The modern touch of Altare does bring earlier approachability, but 2021 was a classic year with grippy tannins that will continue to improve for decades.  

That's your Piedmont Club for July! Enjoy the heart of summer with these two outstanding wines, and keep your eyes peeled for more hidden gems next time!