Yohan Lardy Chenas "Au Buchonet" Pauline 2023
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The Land
Chénas is the smallest (and one of the highest-lying) appellations in Beaujolais, perched on steep, granitic slopes where thin, sandy decomposed granite overlays hard crystalline bedrock. “Au Buchonet” sits on a northeast-facing rise near the border with Moulin-à-Vent, a sector known for lighter topsoils and exceptional drainage that naturally limits vigor. Vines here—often 40–70 years old—build concentration without heaviness, producing Gamay with an uncommon mix of finesse and depth. Organic farming is practiced across Yohan Lardy’s holdings, with grasses maintained between rows, no chemical herbicides, and handwork on the steeper parcels. Elevation and exposure work together to protect acidity in warm vintages like 2023, giving the wine its lifted, red-fruited profile.
The Wine
“Pauline” is fermented from whole clusters in concrete, following a semi-carbonic approach that preserves aromatic purity while allowing for fine, structural tannin. Maceration is gentle, relying more on infusion than extraction, and élevage continues in concrete to maintain precision and avoid any oak influence. The 2023 vintage shows ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, and faint violet notes, framed by the granite’s hallmark mineral edge. The palate is supple but not soft: moderate tannins, bright acidity, and a clean, savory finish that leans toward crushed stone and subtle spice. It drinks as an elegant, high-altitude expression of Chénas rather than a weightier, Moulin-à-Vent-styled rendition.
The People
Yohan Lardy farms old vines across Moulin-à-Vent, Juliénas, Fleurie, and Chénas, working entirely by hand and focusing on organic methods and low-input winemaking. He gravitates toward small, characterful parcels—some planted by his father and grandfather—that showcase the diversity of Beaujolais’ granitic soils. Yohan is part of the region’s younger, highly quality-driven generation: native yeasts, minimal sulfur, long fermentations, and no new wood. “Au Buchonet” is one of his most personal cuvées, drawn from a favored old-vine plot and bottled separately for its purity and poise. His wines consistently demonstrate how careful farming and restrained cellar work can elevate Gamay into something both transparent and complex.
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Beaujolais stands on its own as a unique source of the world's greatest Gamay wines and one of the birthplaces of the natural wine movement. The 10 crus on the north side provide the most serious versions including Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent, but the more basic reds further south are vibrant and affordable. There's also a rare white made from Chardonnay.
Beaujolais
A red wine grape most associated with Beaujolais, Gamay makes fresh, fruity red wines with berry and violet aromas. It is grown around the world outside of France where it is often a darker and less tannic cousin to Pinot Noir in cool climate regions such as Oregon and Victoria.
Gamay
Practicing Organic vineyard farming involves growing grapes using organic methods—avoiding synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides—but without formal certification. Wineries adopting this approach prioritize environmental health, soil vitality, and biodiversity, using natural practices such as composting, cover cropping, and manual pest control. Many small wineries opt for practicing organic methods rather than pursuing official organic certification, primarily due to the significant cost, paperwork, and time commitment involved in certification processes. As a result, practicing organic is a popular choice among boutique and artisanal producers who remain committed to sustainable agriculture while managing budgetary constraints.
