Domaine Philippe Jouan Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Échezeaux Vieilles Vignes 2023
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The Land
Gevrey-Chambertin is the Côte de Nuits village people reach for when they want power: broad-shouldered, meaty, tannic wine. Aux Échezeaux does not behave that way, and the reason is where it sits. The lieu-dit lies at the far southern edge of the commune, directly adjoining Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin and running right up against the Morey-Saint-Denis border. Grand cru soil is a few meters away. The wines that come off it are silkier and finer-boned than village Gevrey has any business being, closer in shape to Morey than to the muscular northern end of the appellation. Jouan's parcel here is planted to vines around 80 years old, which is the other half of the explanation.
The Wine
100% Pinot Noir from old vines, destemmed completely. New oak is used sparingly across the entire Jouan range, and this wine is no exception: the point is transparency, not structure imported from a barrel. The result is medium-bodied and perfumed rather than dense, with red cherry, wild strawberry, rose petal, sous-bois, and a mineral, faintly bloody undertone, carried on fine silky tannin and real length. 2023 was a large, warm vintage in Burgundy with a generous crop and a heat spike near harvest. It rewarded growers who picked early enough and sorted hard; where that happened the wines have both ripeness and lift, which is an unusual combination in a warm year.
The People
Philippe Jouan has run the family domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis since 2004, and the operation is genuinely tiny: under four hectares across the Côte de Nuits, farmed and vinified without much reference to what anyone else is doing. The technique in the cellar has barely changed since the domaine started. Everything is destemmed, new wood stays in the background, and the wines are left to reflect the parcels. Aux Échezeaux is the domaine's most quietly prized holding, an old-vine parcel pressed against grand cru ground that produces a wine well above what the village designation on the label suggests.
Food Pairing
Silky, perfumed Pinot Noir wants restraint on the plate. Roast duck breast with cherries, coq au vin over buttered noodles, mushroom and thyme risotto, or a plate of Époisses and crusty bread. The fine tannin and bright acidity handle fat and browned meat without ever overwhelming the dish, and the forest-floor character in the wine meets mushrooms and game directly. Decant it thirty minutes if opening young, or leave it alone for another five years.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
