Jean Philippe Fichet Meursault 2024
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The Land
A village Meursault is usually what is left after the good parcels are bottled separately. This one is assembled the other way around, from named sites on the southern slopes of the village, with roughly two-thirds of the fruit coming off the hillside and one-third from the flatter ground below. Les Clous contributes vines around sixty years old from a parcel that faces east and tips northeast, which makes it consistently the last of Jean-Philippe Fichet's sites to flower and the last to be picked. Les Chaumes de Narvaux sits just above the premier crus Boucheres and Goutte d'Or. Limouzin lies directly beneath Genevrieres. A little Criots rounds it out. Four addresses, four different arrival times, one wine.
The Wine
Chardonnay, hand-picked, fermented in barrel and put through malolactic in barrel, then held eighteen months before bottling with new oak kept scarce by a six-year barrel rotation. "I've really tried to make Meursault in this style since 1996," Fichet has said. "Precision and less oak was my starting point." The blend across hillside and plain is what gives this wine its shape: tension from the slope, flesh from the flat. 2024 delivered a cold, wet, cloudy growing season with mildew pressure that growers described as unlike anything in living memory, and it produced whites of a specific type. Acidity looked high at harvest but much of it was malic and softened through malolactic, leaving finished wines around 12.5 to 13% alcohol with total acidity of 5 to 6 grams per liter and pH near 3.3. Lemon zest, green apple, white pepper, and a distinctly salty finish.
The People
Fichet would rather make an uneconomical amount of wine from a great parcel than lose it inside a blend. In 1998 his Tesson vines produced barely four barrels; anyone else would have folded that into the village cuvee, and he bottled it on its own, in magnum only. That instinct explains the shape of the whole domaine, which he assembled site by site over nearly forty years: Chevalieres and Tesson on the premier cru slope, Meix Sous le Chateau inside the village walls, Gruyaches at the foot of Charmes, Referts across the line in Puligny-Montrachet. He studies the differences between them obsessively, and the village wine benefits precisely because he refuses to treat any parcel as filler.
Food Pairing
Roast chicken thighs with garlic, lemon, and a handful of herbs is the weeknight version and it works perfectly. Trout cooked in a pan with almonds and brown butter picks up the wine's nutty edge. Risotto with spring peas and parmesan meets the texture without overwhelming the citrus. A wedge of Comte or a plate of good ham and cornichons needs nothing else. This is the bottle to keep on hand for the nights when dinner turns out better than you planned.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
