Rosso Bacher Vino Rosso 2023
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The Land
Monforte d'Alba is one of the eleven villages of Barolo, but this is a Langhe red rather than a Barolo, made from the everyday grapes that grow alongside Nebbiolo on the same hills. The Langhe is a landscape of steep, folded hills in southern Piedmont, where calcareous marl soils and wide day-to-night temperature swings give the reds their perfume and lift. Marisa Bacher's plot sits on a hilltop in Monforte planted to old Dolcetto and Barbera, some of the vines around 60 years old. These are the grapes Piedmontese growers have always kept for their own table, and on this soil they carry real freshness.
The Wine
A blend of Dolcetto and Barbera, the two traditional workhorse reds of the Langhe. Dolcetto gives deep color, dark plum and blackberry, and a slightly bitter almond snap on the finish; Barbera adds bright acidity and red-cherry lift. It is fermented in cement and aged in steel and fiberglass rather than oak, which keeps the fruit clear and unmasked. The 2023 vintage is worth a note: a wet spring brought heavy downy mildew pressure across the Langhe, a real test for an organic grower, and the wine that came through is fresh, with slightly lower alcohol than the hot 2022. Serve it with a light chill.
The People
Marisa Bacher grew up in Valsesia in northern Piedmont, where her family raised dairy cows at the foot of Monte Rosa. She moved south to Barolo and has worked since 2016 at Cascina Fontana, the Barolo house of Mario Fontana, handling cellar work while learning the region. In 2020 she leased a small plot of old Dolcetto and Barbera vines in Monforte d'Alba and began making wine under her own name. She farms and raises the wine organically, without certification, and does nearly everything herself, from the vineyard to the cellar. Rosso Bacher is the entry point to a tiny, hands-on project built on old vines and minimal intervention.
Food Pairing
A weeknight Piedmontese red, built for the table rather than the cellar. Pour it with tajarin or tagliatelle in a simple ragù, a plate of salumi and Castelmagno cheese, mushroom risotto, or a sausage and pepper skillet. The bright acidity and Dolcetto's slight bitterness cut through fat and salt, and a light chill makes it even more refreshing. Open it young and drink it freely.
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Piedmont, framed by the Alps in northwestern Italy, is a land of rolling hills and carefully cultivated vineyards. The continental climate, with its cold winters and warm summers, creates prime conditions for the Nebbiolo grape, which dominates much of the region's red wine production. The Langhe area is home to Barolo and Barbaresco, structured red wines known for their complex aromas, firm tannins, and aging potential. While Nebbiolo is the dominant grape of Piedmont, the region also makes interesting white wines like those from Arneis and Timorasso. Alto Piemonte is a separate region in the north with its own distinctive expressions of Nebbiolo, alongside other red grape varietals.
Italy - Piedmont
Dolcetto is a black grape variety native to the Piedmont region in northwest Italy, cherished for its ability to produce soft, fruit-forward red wines with relatively low acidity and a pleasing bitter finish. Known for its early ripening, Dolcetto yields wines that are typically deep in color, offering aromas of black cherry and licorice, making them highly approachable in their youth. The grape is most commonly associated with wines from Dogliani, Alba, and Asti, where the varietal's characteristics are celebrated in their purest form. While not as prestigious as Nebbiolo-based wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, Dolcetto holds a beloved place in Piedmontese wine culture for its straightforward, deliciously fruity profile and its versatility with food.
