Enzo Boglietti Barolo Fossati 2009
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The Land
Fossati is a La Morra vineyard with east and southeast exposure at 370 to 420 meters above sea level. The soils are silty clay, subalkaline, low in organic matter, similar in character to La Morra's other crus. La Morra is the largest commune in the Barolo DOCG and the one most associated with the more perfumed, earlier-developing style of Nebbiolo: the Tortonian-era calcareous marl here gives wines rounder tannins and more aromatic lift than the tougher Serravalian soils of Castiglione Falletto or Serralunga. Fossati sits just southwest of the more famous Brunate cru and descends toward Sarmassa. At the center of the vineyard stand the ruins of a farmhouse occupied by Enzo's ancestors for several centuries, visible from the valley floor.
The Wine
100% Nebbiolo. Post-fermentation skin contact using the "steccatura" technique: wooden staves inserted manually into the vat to keep the skins submerged for months after alcoholic fermentation, a traditional method for extending tannin and aromatic extraction without high temperatures. The 2009 vintage in Barolo was one of the warmest and most generous of the decade: a long, hot growing season produced ripe, concentrated grapes with softer tannins and higher natural sugar than a cooler year. At 15+ years of age, the 2009 Fossati is in comfortable middle age. Dried roses, leather, dark cherry jam, tobacco, iron, and anise. The tannins have resolved. It needs air but delivers immediately.
The People
Enzo Boglietti began making wine commercially in 1991 after a crisis in milk prices ended the family's dairy farming. He learned from neighbors including Roberto Voerzio and joined the wave of modernist producers making internationally-styled Barolo: short macerations, French barriques, accessible early. Over the following two decades, as his understanding of the vineyards deepened, he moved methodically away from that approach. The barriques gave way to larger-format casks; extraction was reduced; the steccatura technique restored a more traditional approach to post-fermentation work. The direction of travel has been consistently toward the traditional, and the wines have become more precise and more distinctly local in character as a result.
Food Pairing
Braised beef cheeks with rosemary and red wine, wild boar ragu over pappardelle, aged Castelmagno with honey and walnuts, or roast pigeon. The dried-fruit character of the 2009 suits game well; the acidity handles fat cleanly.
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Piedmont, framed by the Alps in northwestern Italy, is a land of rolling hills and carefully cultivated vineyards. The continental climate, with its cold winters and warm summers, creates prime conditions for the Nebbiolo grape, which dominates much of the region's red wine production. The Langhe area is home to Barolo and Barbaresco, structured red wines known for their complex aromas, firm tannins, and aging potential. While Nebbiolo is the dominant grape of Piedmont, the region also makes interesting white wines like those from Arneis and Timorasso. Alto Piemonte is a separate region in the north with its own distinctive expressions of Nebbiolo, alongside other red grape varietals.
Italy - Piedmont
Nebbiolo, a prestigious grape from Italy's Piedmont region, is celebrated for its profound truffle and rose aromas, complex flavors, and ability to age gracefully thanks to strong acidity and tannins, producing the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines.
