Domaine Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui 2022
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The Land
Clos de Vougeot is the least reliable Grand Cru in Burgundy, and that is a fact of geology rather than an insult. The walled clos runs 50 hectares from the top of the slope down to the flat ground beside the road, split among roughly eighty owners, and the difference between the two ends is the difference between a great bottle and a disappointing one. Anne Gros farms at the top, in the lieu-dit Le Grand Maupertui in the upper southwest quadrant, where the clos borders Musigny and Grands Échezeaux. Up there the soil is thin, gravelly, calcareous, sitting on oolitic limestone, and it drains hard. Down at the bottom it is deep clay that holds water. Same appellation on the label, entirely different wine in the glass. Some of these vines were planted in 1905; the parcel averages sixty years.
The Wine
100% Pinot Noir, hand-harvested and destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, then raised in French oak: one third new barrels, one third one-year, one third two-year. That is a measured amount of new wood for Grand Cru, and it is deliberate. Anne Gros builds wines around texture rather than extraction, and heavy toast would sit on top of what this site does. 2022 was hot and dry in the Côte de Nuits with real heat through July and August, but the vines drew on deep winter water and the harvest came in ripe, healthy, and abundant after the frost-devastated 2021. The wine leads with purple wildflowers, black cherry, plum, and blueberry, moving into herbs and peppery spice, with fine-grained tannin and a structure that says to wait. Give it five years at minimum.
The People
There have been Gros family members farming in Vosne-Romanée since the 1830s, and by the 1980s the name had fractured across several separate domaines. Anne Gros took over her father François's estate in the late 1980s and reorganized it, bottling everything herself from 1988. She works about 6.5 hectares in the Côte de Nuits, which is small even by Burgundian standards, and her reputation rests on a specific quality: her wines are rounder and silkier than most of her neighbors' without losing the shape of the vineyard. That is a harder thing to do than making a wine that is simply big.
Food Pairing
Grand Cru Burgundy does not need to be complicated at the table. Roast squab or duck with thyme, a côte de boeuf carved at the table, pork sausages with herbs and lentils, or a board of aged Époisses and Comté. The fine tannin and lifted acidity work with roasted meat and mushroom rather than against them. Decant an hour ahead, and if you can stand to, forget about it in the cellar for a few more years first.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
