Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Blanc Clos des Aigrots 2023
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The Land
The Clos des Aigrots lies on the southern edge of Beaune's premier cru belt, adjacent to the more famous Clos des Mouches. Lafarge holds one hectare in the Clos des Aigrots, planted one-quarter to Chardonnay at the upper section of the parcel — the highest elevation ground, closest to Clos des Mouches — and three-quarters to Pinot Noir below. The red clay soils here differ from the limestone-dominant ground of the white wine appellations further south, giving Chardonnay a richer, more textured character than it typically shows in Puligny or Chassagne. White Beaune is a rarity; this is one of a small number of serious examples from the appellation.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay from vines more than 70 years old at the upper end of the Clos des Aigrots parcel. Grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented with their full lees in cask — the only Lafarge white that receives new oak, used here to match the weight and richness of the site. The result is fuller and more textured than the appellation's Pinot Noirs: toasted hazelnut, ripe pear, lemon curd, and beeswax, with a creamy mid-palate and a saline, mineral finish. The 2023 vintage was Burgundy's warmest on record; the altitude of the upper parcel and the old vine age helped maintain natural balance in a year that demanded it from every grower.
The People
The Beaune Blanc is one of the more unusual wines in the Lafarge range — the only white premier cru the estate produces, from a single quarter-hectare of Chardonnay planted into an appellation known almost entirely for red wine. Michel Lafarge planted it to demonstrate that the upper Clos des Aigrots, with its higher elevation and clay soils, could produce serious white wine. He was right. The estate is now run by Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde, farming biodynamically under both Demeter and Ecocert certification, with the same ambient-yeast, minimal-intervention approach across the entire range. Imported in the US by Becky Wasserman.
Food Pairing
Sautéed Dover sole with brown butter and capers, roast pork tenderloin with mustard cream sauce, a gratin of leeks and gruyère, or fresh pasta with truffle butter and parmesan. The wine's richness and textured weight pair well with dishes that have fat or cream to meet them; the acidity keeps everything from going heavy. A white Burgundy from an appellation you wouldn't normally think to look for one.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
