Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Clos de la Chateniere" 2023
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The Land
Saint-Aubin sits immediately above Puligny-Montrachet, separated from it by a narrow valley, with its best premier crus on south and southwest-facing slopes that look across toward Puligny's grands crus. Clos de la Chateniere is widely considered the finest of Saint-Aubin's white premier crus — 1.25 hectares on a 40% slope too steep for any mechanical work, with thin, stony soils over hard limestone bedrock and an iron-oxide character that shows clearly in the wine. Chardonnay vines here were planted in 1964. At this intersection of Saint-Aubin, Puligny, and Chassagne, the site produces whites that rival premier crus from those more famous appellations at a fraction of the price.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay from vines planted in 1964, pressed whole-cluster and fermented with ambient yeasts in a slow, cool process that can last up to 90 days. Aged 24 months on fine lees in a mix of 300 and 600-liter barrels, predominantly used, with 0 to 15% new oak, followed by six months in tank before release. The extended lees contact builds texture and weight while preserving precision. The 2023 vintage was Burgundy's warmest on record, but the altitude and southwest exposure of Clos de la Chateniere moderated ripening. The result shows ripe lemon, white peach, toasted hazelnut, and flint, with a creamy but taut mid-palate and a long mineral finish.
The People
Hubert Lamy founded the domaine in 1973 in Saint-Aubin. His son Olivier joined in 1995 and has built one of the Côte de Beaune's strongest reputations through extended lees aging, minimal new oak, and a deep conviction that Saint-Aubin's best sites are undervalued. He is correct. Clos de la Chateniere is the centerpiece of the white wine range, and it consistently shows what the appellation can do when the terroir is taken seriously. Organic and sustainable farming throughout; imported in the US by Becky Wasserman.
Food Pairing
Pan-roasted halibut with brown butter and capers, fresh pasta with ricotta and lemon zest, roasted lobster with tarragon cream, or a soft triple-cream cheese with toasted walnuts. Enough structure to carry a rich dish, enough precision to not overwhelm a lighter one. A white that earns its place at the dinner table more than once.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
