The Land
Most wine drinkers who know Nebbiolo know it as Barolo or Barbaresco. Far fewer know that it has been grown for centuries in the hills of northeastern Piedmont, around Ghemme and Romagnano Sesia in the province of Novara, where the soils are not the calcareous clay-limestone of the Langhe but volcanic porphyry and glacial deposits left by the retreating Alpine glaciers. Ioppa's vineyards sit on southwest-facing slopes above Romagnano Sesia, at the southern edge of the Colline Novaresi DOC, looking toward Monte Rosa, the second-highest peak in the Alps. The Sesia River runs below, moderating temperatures through the growing season. The geology and the latitude produce a Nebbiolo of different character than the Langhe: more aromatic, lighter in body, with freshness that no amount of oak treatment would improve.
The Wine
100% Nebbiolo from vines 20 to 40 years old, harvested at the end of September. Fermented 7-10 days with native yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel. Aged 8-12 months in stainless; no oak at any stage. This is deliberate: the stainless-only approach keeps the wine's lifted, aromatic character intact rather than pushing it toward the brooding structure of the Ghemme DOCG wines the estate also makes. The profile is all freshness and fragrance: dried violet, cherry, iron, and wild herbs, with supple tannins and enough acidity to carry through a full meal.
The People
Ioppa is a seventh-generation family winery founded in 1852 when Michelangelo Ioppa acquired the best vineyard land in the hills around Romagnano Sesia, including the Balsina vineyards still farmed today. Pietro Ioppa was one of the principal promoters of the Ghemme DOC designation in 1968. The family moved its winery to its current location among the vineyards in Frazione Mauletta in 2003. Brothers Gianpiero and Giorgio Ioppa run the estate today, with the next generation, Andrea, Luca, and Marco, now working alongside them. The estate practices sustainable viticulture under the PSR 10.1 framework, using only organic fertilizers and certified organic treatments for fungal disease. The naturally breezy microclimate of the hills means no anti-botrytis sprays are needed. Imported by The Source Imports.
Food Pairing
The stainless aging and lighter body make this one of the most versatile Nebbiolos available at any price. Pasta al ragu with a hand-cut noodle, braised chicken thighs with porcini and white wine, Italian sausage with polenta, or a charcuterie spread with cured meats and young Grana Padano. Serve slightly cool, around 62 degrees.
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