The Land
The Orolungo plateau sits at the foot of the Alps above Biella in the province of Novara, a territory known for centuries for wine but largely abandoned after phylloxera and postwar economic collapse. The soils here are like nowhere else in Piedmont: Pliocene-era marine sands deposited over igneous bedrock, loaded with iron, manganese, aluminum, and zinc. "Ori" means gold in the local dialect, a reference to the yellow color of these distinctive mineral-rich sands. They drain freely, stress the vine, and produce wines of lighter body and pronounced fragrance even from Nebbiolo. Proprietà Sperino's Lessona vineyards sit at the foot of Monte Rosa at six hectares across five named parcels: Belvedere, Ormeggio, Castagnola, Rava, and Covà.
The Wine
85% Nebbiolo, 15% Vespolina, from the Ormeggio, Castagnola, and Belvedere parcels in Lessona. Harvested by hand, sorted, destemmed, gently pressed, and gravity-fed into open-topped wooden fermenters in the cellar of the old Lessona castle, a building over two centuries old. Native yeast fermentation. The rosato spends roughly three months on the lees before bottling. "Rosa del Rosa" doubles down on the color: rosa is pink, del Rosa means of the rose. The profile is fresh and Alpine: sour cherry, dried rose petal, iron, and a saline mineral edge. Drink it cold and soon.
The People
Proprietà Sperino was revived in 1999 when Paolo de Marchi — the Florentine winemaker behind Isole e Olena in Chianti Classico — and his son Luca began restoring the original family cellars in Lessona. The project is as much an act of historical recovery as it is winemaking: this region produced wines as admired as Barolo before phylloxera and the postwar exodus of agricultural labor wiped out its vineyards. The estate now farms eight hectares, six in Lessona and two and a half in the Bramaterra zone. The first vintage was 2004, released in 2006. Imported by Giuliana Imports.
Food Pairing
Rosé built from Nebbiolo and Vespolina has more structure than a Provence rosé and handles more at the table. Chilled salmon with capers and dill, grilled swordfish with citrus vinaigrette, burrata with heirloom tomatoes, or a charcuterie spread with cured northern Italian meats. Serve very cold, around 48 degrees.
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