The Land
The 2023 Kerner from Abbazia di Novacella comes from vineyards in the Isarco River Valley, in the shadow of the Dolomites, from the Alto Adige region in Italy. Cool alpine winds and dramatic diurnal temperature shifts shape the wine’s vivid character. Located between 600 and 900 meters in altitude, the vineyards benefit from steep slopes and gravelly moraine soils, formed by ancient glaciers, providing excellent drainage and encouraging deep roots. These conditions yield wines that are intensely aromatic, with crisp acidity and a mineral backbone. In this high-altitude setting, vines rarely exceed 30 years of age, and naturally low yields contribute to the wine’s concentration and precision.

The Wine
Abbazia’s Kerner is a stunning example of the region’s potential for aromatic whites. The nose opens with a lively burst of white peach, jasmine, green apple, and citrus zest, followed by a whisper of alpine herbs. On the palate, the wine is electric, with bright acidity propelling flavors of nectarine, citrus, and crushed stone. Subtle hints of white pepper and a long, mineral finish add complexity, making each sip refreshing yet layered. The Kerner grape—a cross between Riesling and Schiava is unusual to most people but this particular wine has been one of our long time favorites for over a decade!

The People
Founded in 1142 by the Augustinian Order of Canons Regular, Abbazia di Novacella has a nearly 900-year legacy of winemaking. The Augustinians are not cloistered monks in the traditional sense; they take vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, but also work to sustain their community. To this end, the abbey operates not only a world-class winery but also farms apples and vegetables and runs a small school focused on viticulture. The estate’s commitment to excellence has garnered international recognition, with its enologist, Celestino Lucin, named Winemaker of the Year in 2009 by Gambero Rosso.

Producing both white and red wines across Alto Adige, the abbey farms 6 hectares near Novacella and 15 hectares at their Marklhof estate near Bolzano, sourcing additional fruit from over 50 small growers. While the white grape vineyards, including Kerner, surround the abbey, red varietals such as Schiava, Pinot Noir, and Lagrein are planted further south near Lago di Caldaro and Bolzano. Though the estate practices organic farming, it has opted out of formal certification, focusing instead on centuries-old sustainable methods.

The Land
Nestled in the heart of Alsace, the Etienne Simonis Vieilles Vignes Sylvaner is sourced from vineyards near Ammerschwihr, where old vines—some over 50 years old—thrive in of granite and alluvial soils. This stony, mineral-rich terroir imparts crisp precision to the wine, while Alsace’s cool continental climate, with generous sunshine, allows the Sylvaner grapes to ripen slowly, balancing delicate aromatics with lively acidity. Here, the intersection of soil, vine age, and climate creates a distinctive character—fresh, mineral, and effortlessly elegant.

The Wine
The nose offers aromas of yellow flowers, Bosc pear, line curd followed by hints of wet stone and green apple. On the palate, this wine is rich, with bright acidity balancing rather opulent ripe fruit. A subtle saline edge, a hallmark of the local terroir, adds depth to the long finish. The extended aging gives the wine added texture and complexity, resulting in a vibrant yet refined expression of Sylvaner—a variety often underestimated but in the same realm as Riesling with complexity and depth.

The People
When Etienne Simonis took over the primary responsibility for the family’s vineyards from his father René in 1996, he embarked on a path familiar to many in his generation: organic farming, reduced yields, extremely gentle pressing, reduced sulphur use, and an emphasis on long, careful aging. Over the years, Simonis mastered the delicate balance between oxidative and reductive winemaking, all while staying committed to natural practices.

The Land

Bodegas Albamar’s Fusco Mencía is from the heart of Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra, a region renowned for its dramatic terraced vineyards that cascade down the steep slopes of the Miño and Sil rivers in northwest Spain. These ancient terraces, some dating back to Roman times, are carved into granite and slate soils, which impart an unmistakable minerality to the wine. Ribeira Sacra’s cool, Atlantic-influenced climate, tempered by the warmth of the inland valleys, creates ideal conditions for Mencía to develop its hallmark freshness, fine tannins, and delicate aromatics. Low yields from these steep, challenging vineyards ensure that every grape tells the story of this rugged landscape.

The Wine
The 2020 Fusco Mencía offers a vibrant, expressive take on this Galician variety. On the nose, aromas of wild juicy red berries, violets, and black cherries mingle with hints of dried herbs and crushed stone. On the palate, it’s lively and medium-bodied, with supple tannins and bright acidity framing flavors of tart plum, blackberry, and a touch of flinty minerality. A subtle bit of spice emerges on the finish, along with earthy undertones that reflect the slate-rich terroir. With its moderate alcohol around 13%, the wine balances energy and elegance, making it equally suitable for casual sipping or pairing with a range of foods.

The People
We had the pleasure of visiting this winery in October 2024, hence our enthusiasm to share this wine with our club members. Albamar is the vision of Xurxo Alba, a passionate winemaker who combines a deep respect for tradition with a drive for innovation. Known for his focus on Atlantic varietals, Xurxo works primarily in Rías Baixas, but with Fusco he ventures into Ribeira Sacra to explore the potential of Mencía. The name Fusco—meaning “dusk” in Galician—reflects the transition from day to night, much like this wine bridges freshness and depth. Xurxo farms sustainably, intervening minimally in both vineyard and cellar to allow the grape and terroir to shine. The 2020 vintage was aged in stainless steel to preserve the purity of fruit, resulting in a wine that is authentic, lively, and unpretentious—an honest expression of Ribeira Sacra’s rugged beauty.

The Land
The Tiberio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is from vineyards located near the town of Cugnoli, in the rugged hills of Abruzzo, just 20 kilometers from the Adriatic coast. Here, at elevations of 300 meters, the vines benefit from the cooling maritime breezes that temper the region’s warm days. The vineyards are rooted in limestone and clay soils, which lend the wine both freshness and structure. Abruzzo’s hilly terrain, combined with ample sunshine and significant diurnal temperature shifts, allows Montepulciano grapes to ripen fully while preserving vibrant acidity—a hallmark of the Tiberio estate.

The Wine
This 2021 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo offers a pure, lively expression of the grape. The nose is filled with aromas of black and red cherry, black plum, and blackberry, accompanied by hints of violet, earth, and a touch of graphite. On the palate, it is full-bodied, with juicy acidity keeping the dark fruit flavors bright and fresh. Silky tannins provide structure without overpowering the wine, leading to a balanced, savory finish with a subtle touch of spice and mineral notes. The wine is well-balanced, delivering depth and elegance with effortless drinkability. This wine is one of the greatest examples of this grape and is incredibly affordable and versatile.

The People
The Tiberio winery is a family affair, founded by Riccardo Tiberio in 2000 and now run by his children, Cristiana and Antonio. From the start, the Tiberios have been committed to preserving native Abruzzese varietals and expressing their full potential. Cristiana, the winemaker, takes a hands-off approach in the cellar, believing that great wine starts in the vineyard. Farming organically, the family prioritizes low yields, manual harvests, and minimal intervention during vinification to allow the purity of the grapes to shine. The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2021 embodies their philosophy—a wine honoring tradition but with an emphasis on precision.