Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin Les Crais 2024
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The Land
Fixin is the forgotten village at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, just above Gevrey-Chambertin, and for years it was overlooked while collectors chased the famous names to the south. Les Crais sits at the base of the village on an alluvial fan, deep stony soil with excellent drainage; the name itself refers to the limestone pebbles scattered through the ground. This is the domaine's home turf, a roughly one-hectare parcel that was long the signature bottling of Amélie's father Denis. Structured, savory, and built to age, it is Côte de Nuits Pinot at a price the marquee villages left behind.
The Wine
100% Pinot Noir, fermented with about 30% whole clusters to add lift and spice, with native yeasts. It ages for around 15 months in oak, only about a fifth of it new. The stony, well-drained soil gives a firmer, more mineral style than softer Côte de Nuits villages: black cherry and dark berry, iron and crushed stone, a twist of pepper and dried herb from the whole-cluster portion, and a tannic backbone that wants a little time. This is the emblematic wine of the house and the clearest picture of what Fixin can do. The 2024 vintage in Burgundy was wet and difficult, with heavy mildew and small yields, favoring fresher, more aromatic reds, a style that suits Les Crais and its natural cut.
The People
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet has farmed Fixin for seven generations, and Les Crais has always been at the center of it. Amélie Berthaut took over in 2013 after training in oenology in Bordeaux, uniting the Berthaut and Gerbet holdings into about 16 hectares across the Côte de Nuits. She farms with her husband Nicolas Faure, a cult-followed vigneron whose natural-leaning approach has rubbed off: the domaine now straddles classic and natural, with less new oak and lower sulfur in recent vintages. Farming is sustainable and organic-minded, with chemical treatments steadily reduced. Amélie is one of the growers putting Fixin back on the map.
Food Pairing
A savory, structured red for hearty cooking. Beef bourguignon, braised short ribs, roast lamb with herbs, or a mushroom and lentil stew. Firm, gamey cheeses work well too. The stony grip and dark fruit stand up to slow-braised meat, and a decant helps it open when young.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
