Domaine Fontaine Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet 2024
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The Land
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet is the smallest grand cru on the Côte de Beaune at approximately 1.57 hectares, tiny even by the compact standards of the Côte d'Or. The vineyard sits at the base of the grand cru slope in Chassagne-Montrachet, just below Bâtard-Montrachet, at roughly 240 to 260 meters elevation. The soils carry all the hallmarks of the grand cru belt: deep brown limestone with chalky marl, excellent drainage, and a southeast orientation that captures morning sun while avoiding afternoon heat extremes. Because the plot is so small and ownership is split among fewer than a dozen producers, Criots-Bâtard is genuinely rare, far less widely available than Bâtard or Montrachet, and rarely discussed with the gravity it deserves. Fontaine-Gagnard holds one of the largest individual shares of this tiny appellation. Clive Coates called theirs "one of the very best sources" for the cru.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay, gently pressed, fermented with native yeasts in oak, aged on lees for 12 months in barrel followed by 5 months in tank for integration. New oak runs higher than the premier crus, consistent with grand cru treatment, but remains restrained by the standards of the appellation. Even in grand cru context, Criots has its own personality: spice, a salty-savory nuance alongside the apple and pear, and chalky minerality that runs through the wine from start to finish. The rich side of grand cru white Burgundy is fully present here. The 2024 vintage brings more freshness and lift than we have seen in a while. The density is there; so is a clean, incisive acid line that keeps everything in motion. Small quantity produced.
The People
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard traces its origin to 1982, when Richard Fontaine married Laurence Gagnard, eldest daughter of the legendary Jacques Gagnard. The holdings from that union became the foundation of a 12-hectare estate covering three grand crus and twelve premier crus in Chassagne-Montrachet, including a small parcel of Le Montrachet, placing the family among just 16 producers in the world who own a piece of that vineyard. Since 2007, the domaine has been led by Céline Fontaine, a winemaker of sharp instincts and genuine humility who talks more readily about her vineyards than herself. Her partner Fred Robert spent 11 years at Domaine Armand Rousseau in Gevrey-Chambertin before joining Céline in 2017. The approach is consistent: native yeasts, restrained new oak, and a preference for letting terroir speak.
Food Pairing
Criots-Bâtard calls for food that respects its weight without overwhelming its complexity: butter-poached Maine lobster, Dover sole meunière, Dungeness crab with drawn butter and a squeeze of lemon, or veal medallions with a light truffle cream sauce. The wine's spicy, saline character is a natural match for anything from the sea.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
