Domaine Marc Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Roche Dumay 2024
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The Land
La Roche Dumay is one of the highest and stoniest premier crus in Saint-Aubin, perched on the western slope of the valley at around 350 meters and above. The soil is the key: over 90 percent limestone, almost pure chalk with very little clay, about as mineral a foundation as Burgundy offers. The vineyard faces southwest and takes the full afternoon sun, but the altitude keeps the nights cool, so the fruit ripens without losing its acidity. Sites this high and this chalky are why the best Saint-Aubin whites get spoken of alongside the premier crus of Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault. This is high, cold, stony ground built for tension.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay from the La Roche Dumay premier cru. Whole-cluster pressed, fermented on native yeasts, and aged in French oak barrels with only a modest fraction new, resting on the fine lees for close to a year. The oak is kept in check so the chalk can speak. Expect lemon, green apple, white flowers, and a pronounced flinty, chalky, almost salty minerality, with a lean, vertical, tightly wound body and a long, mouthwatering finish. This is the most mineral and age-worthy of the Colin Saint-Aubins. The 2024 vintage was small and difficult across Burgundy, with mildew pressure and low yields, but the fruit that survived made bright, energetic whites with firm acidity.
The People
Marc Colin founded this domaine in 1970 in the village of Saint-Aubin, building on vines inherited from the Colin and Ponavoy families, some held for more than a century, and his father Pierre had planted in Puligny back in 1946. Today it is run by two of Marc's children, Damien in the cellar and Caroline on the business side, still with their father close at hand, while two other Colin sons, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Joseph, left to found their own well-known labels. The domaine farms sustainably by lutte raisonnée, harvests everything by hand, and aims for wines that show the site rather than the cellar.
Food Pairing
A chalky, high-acid white like this wants clean, briny, buttery food. Pour it with oysters and mignonette, with grilled or raw shellfish, with sole or turbot in beurre blanc, or with sushi and sashimi. Its cut also handles a young, nutty Comté. Give it a little time in the glass and serve it cool, not cold. The kind of Saint-Aubin worth cellaring a few years to watch the minerality unfold.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
