François Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Vieilles Vignes 2021 1.5L
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The Land
This is the crown of the Mikulski cellar, and it comes from a scrap of ground: 0.18 hectares in Les Charmes, planted by the family's grandfather in 1913. These are true old vines, well over a century old, with roots driven deep into the limestone bedrock beneath the lower slope of Meursault. That depth is the whole story. Where younger vines read the weather of a given year, roots this old reach a cooler, more constant layer of rock, which is why this wine carries such freshness and density at once. In great years, tasters reach past Meursault entirely and compare it to grand cru Bâtard-Montrachet on the hill above.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay from the 1913 vines, farmed to organic principles though not certified, aged in barrel. Total production is tiny, around 500 liters a year across bottles and magnums combined, which makes any format scarce and this 1.5-liter magnum especially so. Expect a wine of grand cru scale: honey, cinnamon, and nutmeg, candied apple, pear, pineapple and orange, roasted hazelnut and pastry, lifted by exotic flowers and a deep, saline, almost telluric minerality that resonates on a very long finish. It is concentrated and structured, built to be cellared rather than opened young. The 2021 vintage was cool and frost-reduced in Burgundy, giving small quantities of tightly wound, high-acid whites with excellent aging potential, and in magnum this will evolve slowly and gracefully. Give it a decade or more.
The People
François Mikulski was born in Dijon to a Meursault mother and a Polish father, grew up in Luxembourg, and learned wine from his uncle, the Meursault grower Pierre Boillot. He took over the family estate in 1991 with his wife Marie-Pierre, released his first vintage in 1992, and now works with his nephew Thomas. The domaine covers about 10 hectares, mostly Chardonnay, farmed to organic principles without certification. Mikulski's restraint, modest oak and clean, hands-off winemaking, is what lets a wine like this speak with the voice of century-old vines rather than the cellar.
Food Pairing
A special-occasion white for a special table, ideally a decade from now. Roast Bresse chicken with cream and mushrooms, lobster with beurre blanc, turbot with hollandaise, or veal sweetbreads with morels. Rich, mature cheeses like Comté and Brie de Meaux round it out. A magnum like this is made for a gathering; open it slowly, serve it not too cold, and give it plenty of air.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
