François Mikulski Monthelie Rouge Les Toisieres 2024
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The Land
Monthelie is the quiet village tucked just behind Volnay, and it remains one of the best-value addresses in the Côte de Beaune precisely because it lives in its neighbor's shadow. Les Toisières sits at the entrance to the village on a southwest-facing slope, and it was once a working quarry where flat stones were cut for roofing tiles. That history tells you everything about the soil: clay over hard limestone, the kind of stony ground that gives red Burgundy tension and lift. The vines here are around 40 years old, and the terroir is known for elegant wines with fine, mineral tannins.
The Wine
100% Pinot Noir. Fermentation runs in vats for about 15 days, then the wine ages at least 18 months in barrel with only about 20% new oak, in keeping with Mikulski's low-oak philosophy. The style is fragrant and red-fruited: raspberry, strawberry, and morello cherry, with peony, violet, and a real snap of black and pink pepper. What sets it apart is the minerality: the limestone runs right through the palate to a saline, almost iron-like finish. One respected taster called it a Monthelie with a nod to Chambolle. The 2024 vintage in Burgundy was wet and difficult, with mildew pressure and small yields, and favored exactly this kind of fresh, aromatic, lighter-framed red.
The People
François Mikulski was born in Dijon to a Meursault mother and a Polish father, and grew up in Luxembourg before learning wine from his uncle, the Meursault grower Pierre Boillot. He took over the family estate in 1991 with his wife Marie-Pierre and released his first vintage in 1992; his nephew Thomas now works alongside him. The domaine covers about 10 hectares, farmed to organic principles though not certified, with a house style built on restraint: gentle extraction, modest new oak, and a focus on transparency to the site rather than power.
Food Pairing
A versatile, peppery red for the table. Beef or veal tartare lightly seared, roast chicken with peas, rabbit with bacon and mushrooms, or a well-peppered duck breast with cherries. It also loves lighter game like guinea fowl and pheasant. The bright acidity and fine tannins keep it nimble, and a little air brings out its perfume.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
