Holger Koch Weissburgunder Kaiserstuhl 2024
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The Land
The Kaiserstuhl is a small range of volcanic hills rising out of the flat Rhine plain in Baden, in Germany's warm southwestern corner, directly across the river from Alsace. It is one of the warmest, sunniest places in the country, and its soils are a distinctive mix of volcanic rock and deep, wind-blown loess. Holger Koch farms in Bickensohl, in the Vogtsburg heart of the Kaiserstuhl, where these loess-and-volcanic soils give his Burgundian white varieties both ripeness and a firm mineral edge. This is Pinot country, closer in spirit to Alsace than to the Riesling regions further north.
The Wine
Weissburgunder, the German name for Pinot Blanc, from 35-year-old vines on loess with volcanic components. The grapes are mostly direct-pressed, with a small portion given brief skin contact, then aged about six months on the lees, half in stainless steel and half in old wooden barrels, with no fining or filtering. The result is a dry, racy, mineral-driven white: white pear, green apple, a little almond and citrus, and a distinct salty tang on the finish. Pinot Blanc can turn neutral in the wrong hands, but on Kaiserstuhl volcanic soil and handled this carefully it has real cut and drive. A clean, savory, food-friendly white.
The People
The Koch family grew grapes in Bickensohl for generations, supplying the local cooperative since 1923. That changed in 1999, when Holger Koch took over from his parents and decided to bottle the family's own wine. He had trained with Graf Neipperg in Saint-Émilion and as head cellarmaster at the respected Franz Keller estate nearby in Oberbergen, and he brought that precision back home to a small domaine focused on the Burgundian varieties: Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, and Spätburgunder. He works with a light touch, native-yeast fermentations and minimal handling in the cellar, to let the volcanic Kaiserstuhl terroir speak.
Food Pairing
A dry, mineral Pinot Blanc that is a natural at the table. Pour it with trout or other river fish, roast chicken, a plate of charcuterie and Alsatian tarte flambée, or fresh goat cheese. The salty tang and firm acidity cut through cream and richness and make it a strong aperitif as well. Serve well chilled.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Baden, Germany's warmest and southernmost wine region, is distinctly different from its northern counterparts. Benefiting from a near-Mediterranean climate, Baden is known for its ripe, full-bodied wines, particularly Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder). The Kaiserstuhl, a volcanic range within Baden, is a key area, known for its rich, fertile soils that contribute to the wines' concentration and power. While Riesling is grown, Baden's focus is more on these Burgundian varieties, producing wines that are richer, rounder, and often more approachable in their youth than classic examples from cooler German regions. Baden offers a unique and sun-drenched expression of German wine, showcasing a different facet of the country's viticultural landscape.
