The Land
Chigny-les-Roses is a premier cru village on the northern flank of the Montagne de Reims, the stretch of Champagne most associated with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. This is the heart of J. Lassalle's world, a small holding of vineyards worked plot by plot in and around the village. The Montagne's chalk subsoil sits under clay and sand here, giving the wines both the structure of chalk and the roundness of warmer topsoils. It is classic red-grape Champagne country, and a rosé built on it leans toward red-fruit depth rather than delicacy for its own sake. Premier cru fruit, farmed by a family that has never left the village.
The Wine
A rosé Champagne blending roughly 70% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier, with its pale pink color coming from a small addition of the estate's own Pinot Noir red wine, around 6%. The grapes are still pressed in the same old wooden basket press Jules Lassalle installed decades ago, with each plot vinified separately. Expect wild strawberry, red cherry, and a note of cherry blossom and cherry leaf, with a fine mousse, gentle red-berry weight, and a dry, chalky, savory finish. This is a rosé with enough substance to drink through a meal, not just to toast with. It sits at a true brut level of dryness.
The People
Champagne J. Lassalle was founded in 1942 by Jules Lassalle in Chigny-les-Roses. When he died in 1982, his wife Olga and their daughter Chantal Decelle-Lassalle took over, and in 2006 Chantal's daughter Angéline Templier joined as winemaker. Three generations of women have now run this house under the motto une femme, un esprit, un style, one woman, one spirit, one style. They still farm their premier cru plots by hand and vinify them the way Jules did, plot by plot, prizing precision over volume. It is one of the most admired women-led grower houses in all of Champagne.
Food Pairing
A rosé with this much Pinot Noir can handle real food. Pour it with charcuterie and salmon, with roast chicken or duck breast, with tuna tartare, or with a plate of hard and soft cheeses. Its red-fruit weight also makes it a natural with a fruit tart or, at brunch, with smoked salmon and eggs. Serve it cold but not frozen so the flavors show. The kind of pink Champagne worth opening for no reason other than a good dinner.
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