Marc Colin Saint-Aubin Luce 2024
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The Land
Saint-Aubin sits in a cool side valley behind Chassagne and Puligny, and the village-level Cuvée Luce leans into that coolness. It is drawn from parcels in three of the appellation's cooler climats, sites like Fontenotte and En Vermarin tucked at the back of small valleys, and En Choilles, which faces northwest. Those exposures see less direct heat, so the grapes ripen slowly and hold their acidity, giving the wine its fresh, tightly wound character. The soils are the pale clay and limestone typical of the Côte de Beaune, lean and well-drained. This is white Burgundy built on freshness rather than power, a village wine with real cut.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay, a blend of village parcels in Saint-Aubin that differ in vine age, soil, and exposure, which is the point: each brings something the others lack. Whole-cluster pressed, fermented on native yeasts, and aged in French oak barrels with only a small proportion new, on the fine lees for close to a year. Expect nashi pear, lemon oil, green apple, white flowers, and a little fresh-baked bread from the lees, with a medium body, a crisp core of fruit, and fine, incisive tension through the finish. Clean and pure rather than showy. The 2024 vintage was small and difficult across Burgundy, with mildew pressure and low yields, but the fruit that came through made bright, energetic whites.
The People
Marc Colin founded this domaine in 1970 in the village of Saint-Aubin, building on vines inherited from the Colin and Ponavoy families, some held for more than a century, and his father Pierre had planted in Puligny back in 1946. Today it is run by two of Marc's children, Damien in the cellar and Caroline on the business side, still with their father close at hand, while two other Colin sons, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey and Joseph, left to found their own well-known labels. The domaine farms sustainably by lutte raisonnée, harvests everything by hand, and aims for wines that show the site rather than the cellar.
Food Pairing
This is a versatile, food-friendly white for everyday cooking done well. Pour it with grilled white fish, with a shrimp or crab salad, with chicken and lemon, or with fresh goat cheese and herbs. It makes a fine aperitif and stands up to sushi and oysters. Serve it well-chilled but not frozen. The kind of white Burgundy that makes a simple weeknight dinner feel a little more considered.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
