The Land
"Anime" means "souls," and the name fits: this is a single centenary vineyard in Santo Stefano Roero, 90-year-old vines planted at a density of 10,000 per hectare, at 320 meters above sea level with south-southwest exposure. The south-southwest orientation means less morning sun than a south-facing parcel, but extended warmth through midday and late afternoon: a slower, more even ripening than the other Roero reds at this domaine. The soils are predominantly sandy. Those old roots have pushed deep enough through the sand to find something with real mineral character and concentration, and the high vine density means low yields and fruit intensity that younger parcels cannot replicate.
The Wine
100% Nebbiolo, certified organic. Hand-harvested in the second half of October. 25-day maceration in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts; 12 months in large oak casks; released 22-24 months after harvest. Nothing is fined or filtered. This is Alberto's most ambitious wine, his highest interpretation of the Roero, and the aspiration behind it is plainly stated: a Nebbiolo that can stand in any conversation about the great expressions of the grape. The 90-year-old vines give it a depth and density that younger sandy-soil Nebbiolo cannot match, and the south-southwest exposure adds warmth and concentration that runs through the long, mineral finish. The 2023 vintage was warm and concentrated in Piedmont, exactly the conditions these old vines were built to translate into something profound.
The People
Alberto Oggero grew up in Canale, in the Roero, and spent his childhood working alongside his grandfather Sandro in the family's vineyards. His parents did not follow their own fathers into wine; Alberto was different. When Sandro passed, Alberto returned to take over the 2-hectare property, and by the time he was 20 he had restored the family house and cellar by hand. His first wine was 2009: 500 bottles of Roero Arneis. The first Nebbiolo followed in 2011. In the years since he has reclaimed additional old vineyards in Santo Stefano Roero, building the estate to around 5 hectares with vines ranging from 25 to over 80 years of age. The farming is certified organic; fermentation is with indigenous yeasts; nothing is fined or filtered. His philosophy is restraint and patience: nothing happening in the cellar should get in the way of the fruit. He is a member of RAW Wine and works entirely with the Roero's two native varieties, Arneis and Nebbiolo.
Food Pairing
Braised beef cheeks with gremolata, roast rack of lamb with black truffle, risotto al Barolo, or aged Parmigiano alongside dark chocolate. This wine rewards patience: open it an hour before serving, or better yet, put a few bottles away for three to five years. The 90-year-old vines built it to hold.
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