The Land
Quincy holds an odd distinction: in 1936 it became one of France's first appellations, recognized right after Châteauneuf-du-Pape and decades ahead of its far more famous neighbor, Sancerre. The vineyards sit on a flat plateau along the left bank of the Cher, a Loire tributary, between Vierzon and Bourges. This is open, wind-exposed country, nothing like the steep chalk hills an hour to the east. Domaine Trotereau farms sandy, silex-rich topsoil laid over pink limestone, and that sand matters: it drains fast, warms early in spring, and pushes Sauvignon Blanc toward a lighter-footed, more aromatic style than heavy clay would. Cistercian monks are credited with bringing Sauvignon here in the 12th century.
The Wine
Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2023 is 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc from vines planted between 1985 and 2008. Pierre Ragon gives the crushed fruit a cold soak of 24 to 72 hours before fermentation, pulling more aromatic material from the skins. Fermentation runs on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel for anywhere from 15 days to a month, malolactic is skipped, and the wine is raised in steel and enamel-lined tanks with no oak at all. Expect grapefruit, lemon pith, white peach, and cut grass up front, a flinty, smoky edge from the silex, and a lean, saline finish. The 2023 season in the Centre-Loire was nearly frost-free but fought mildew through a damp late spring and a cool summer, then a late burst of heat ripened clean, healthy fruit for an early-September harvest with high yields.
The People
The domaine dates to 1804, when Étienne-Augustin Trotereau, a grower from nearby Vierzon, founded it; the house and cellar followed around 1830. Pierre Ragon took over from his mother in 1973 and has farmed it by lutte raisonnée ever since, keeping the cellar simple. When Denis Jaumier, long a reference grower for the appellation, retired after the 2005 vintage, Ragon's old parcels sat right beside Jaumier's, making him Kermit Lynch's natural next source. The succession is already underway. Ragon has partnered with Augustin Ponroy, whose family owns the historic Château de Quincy, on a cuvée from vines around the château, and Ponroy is lined up to carry the domaine forward.
Food Pairing
A Quincy white wine this stony wants salt and acidity on the plate. Try warm goat cheese crottins on toast over frisée with a sharp mustard vinaigrette; the wine matches the tang of the cheese and cuts its fat. Pan-fried trout with brown butter, capers, and parsley works because the citrus edge keeps the butter from feeling heavy. Steamed asparagus with a soft-boiled egg and lemon zest is a notoriously hard pairing that green, herbal Sauvignon handles with ease. For something casual, fried calamari with garlic aioli: salt, crunch, and garlic all sharpen against the mineral finish. This is the bottle to keep cold in the fridge door for the nights you cook something simple and want it to taste like more.
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