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Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2022

$168.00

We have 6 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

Barolo is usually described as a landscape of clay and marl, which makes Rocche di Castiglione the outlier. The soil here is sand, loose and free-draining, on the steep eastern face of the Castiglione Falletto ridge where the hill falls away toward the valley. Brovia farms 1.5 hectares in the middle of it, planted in 1966, facing southeast at 350 meters. That exposure does more work than it sounds like it should. The vines take morning sun and are out of the hardest afternoon heat, so sugar accumulates slowly and the aromatics survive. Sand holds almost no water, which forces the roots deep. That combination is why Rocche has always been the perfumed, fine-boned cru of Castiglione Falletto rather than the muscular one.

The Wine

100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked, fermented with indigenous yeasts in old glass-lined concrete with roughly a month of maceration on the skins, then 18 months in large Slavonian botti and another 18 in French oak casks, bottled unfiltered. Long skin contact in neutral vessels, with no small barrels anywhere in the cellar, lets the sand speak instead of the wood. 2022 was the driest Piedmontese season in roughly seven decades, about 311 millimeters of rain between April and October, with yields down 20 to 45 percent. Rain at the end of September brought the balance back, pulling potential alcohol down by nearly a degree. Rose petal, red cherry, crushed mint and white pepper over a chalky core, with silky, finely drawn tannins and a long mineral finish.

The People

Brovia was founded in 1863 and went quiet in 1932 when Antonio Brovia died young. Production restarted in 1953 under his sons Giacinto, an enologist, and Raffaele, an agronomist, which is where the old Fratelli Brovia label comes from. Their daughters Elena and Cristina joined in the 1980s, Elena in the vineyards and Cristina in the cellar. When the barrique and short-maceration wave swept Barolo in the 1990s, Brovia did not move, and kept long macerations and large casks through the entire modernist period. Alex Sanchez, Elena's husband, arrived from Barcelona in 2001 having never tasted Barolo, learned the cellar under Giacinto, and runs the estate with her today. The vineyards are farmed organically, yields are held around 35 to 40 hectoliters per hectare against a legal ceiling of 54, and only vines over 40 years old go into the cru bottlings.

Food Pairing

This is the Brovia cru for savory rather than heavy. Tajarin with butter, sage and a shaving of white truffle is the classic, and the reason the wine exists. Veal braised slowly with rosemary and a little stock meets the silky tannin without fighting it. Roast duck breast, skin crisped, with a cherry and balsamic reduction picks up the red fruit head-on. Or a wedge of aged Castelmagno with walnuts and honey, the salt sharpening that chalky finish. Rocche di Castiglione is the bottle for the night you want Barolo perfume more than Barolo muscle.

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The Producer

Brovia


The Terroir

Brovia's cellar sits in Castiglione Falletto, but 70 to 80 percent of its classic Barolo comes from Serralunga d'Alba, mainly the Brea cru. The estate covers 19.2 hectares, and about 55 percent of it is Barolo, with Dolcetto at 25 percent, Barbera at 10 and the last 10 split among Arneis, Nebbiolo d'Alba and Freisa. Soils across the holdings run from heavier clay to friable limestone, and the family has bought land almost entirely in Castiglione Falletto and neighboring Serralunga.

The three Castiglione crus sit close together and taste different. Rocche di Castiglione is a 1.5-hectare southeast-facing parcel at 350 meters on sand, unusual for the village, and it gives the most lifted, perfumed wine. Villero, also 1.5 hectares, faces southwest at 340 meters. Garblet Sue is a 0.7-hectare corner of Fiasco on sand and clay-limestone marl, richer and less well-drained than the upper hill. In Serralunga, the one-hectare Ca' Mia plot in Brea faces southeast at 350 meters. North of Alba, sandy south-facing slopes at 340 meters in Vezza d'Alba supply the Arneis and Nebbiolo d'Alba.

Giacinto Brovia founded the estate in 1863. Phylloxera, economic collapse and two world wars then stopped production for close to 30 years. In 1953 two of his grandchildren, brothers Giacinto and Raffaele, brought it back to full scale: Giacinto, the enologist, ran the cellar, and Raffaele, the agronomist, ran the vineyards. Raffaele died in 2011. Giacinto died in 2014 after sixty harvests.

Giacinto's daughters, Elena and Cristina, now run the estate as the fourth generation, with Elena's husband Alex Sanchez, who came from Spain in 2001. The vineyards are farmed organically but not certified. Soils are analyzed every two years, pruning keeps yields down, clusters are thinned in summer when needed, and every grape is picked by hand. In the cellar the style is traditional: Nebbiolo macerates a month or more at 28 to 30°C, the crus age in 30-hectoliter oak botti, and nothing is filtered. Rosenthal Wine Merchant has imported Brovia since the 1978 vintage.

  • Barolo Mostly Serralunga fruit from Brea and, since 2020, the east-facing Gianetto, plus 20 to 30 percent from 50-plus-year-old vines in the three Castiglione crus. It spends 24 to 30 months in 30- to 100-hectoliter botti and is not bottled before 40 months, so it arrives a little more open than the crus.
  • Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Nebbiolo planted in 1966 on 1.5 hectares of sand at 350 meters, aged at least two years in large French oak. The sand shows up as perfume and fine-grained tannin, and it is the estate's most aromatic Barolo; about 5,500 bottles.
  • Barolo Villero Nebbiolo planted in 1961 on a 1.5-hectare southwest-facing parcel at 340 meters, with about three weeks on the skins and two-plus years in large French botti. Fuller and more structured than the Rocche; about 5,500 bottles.
  • Barolo Garblet Sue From 0.7 hectare in the Fiasco subzone also called Altenasso, planted in 1970 and 1979 on sand and clay-limestone marl. The richer, wetter soil gives a darker, rounder Barolo than the other Castiglione crus; about 2,500 bottles.
  • Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia One hectare in Serralunga d'Alba planted to Nebbiolo in 1955, facing southeast at 350 meters, aged two years or more in large French botti. Serralunga's firmer tannin makes this the cru to cellar longest; about 3,500 bottles.
  • Nebbiolo d'Alba Half a hectare of Nebbiolo planted in 1975 in the Valmaggiore site of Vezza d'Alba, on sand at 340 meters. No oak, just at least a year in stainless steel, so the fruit and floral side of Nebbiolo come first; about 2,500 bottles.
  • Langhe Nebbiolo Estate fruit from young plantings in Serralunga d'Alba and Roddino since 2022, fermented and aged in stainless steel after a two-week maceration. The estate's direct, unoaked Nebbiolo for the table now.
  • Barbera d'Alba Sori del Drago From 0.8 hectare in Garblet (Fiasco) in Castiglione Falletto, mostly planted in 1970, aged 15 to 18 months in stainless steel and bottled unfiltered. Bright acidity and dark fruit with no wood in the way; about 4,500 bottles.
  • Barbera d'Alba Ciabot del Fi Barbera aged in stainless steel and 14-hectoliter oak casks. Deeper and more reserved than the Sori del Drago, a Barbera that rewards a few years in bottle.
  • Dolcetto d'Alba Vignavillej Dolcetto planted in 1981 and 1993 on clay-limestone slopes in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga, fermented 7 to 10 days and aged 7 to 9 months in steel, unfiltered. A serious Dolcetto that can hold for close to a decade; about 10,000 bottles.
  • Dolcetto d'Alba Solatio Late-picked Dolcetto from old vines in Serralunga d'Alba, made only in top vintages and aged in steel and small oak. Riper and denser than any typical Dolcetto.
  • Langhe Freisa La Villerina Secca Freisa partly from the Villero cru, made fully still and dry. Tart wild berries and firm tannin for salumi and cheese; fewer than 50 cases come to the US.
  • Roero Arneis The estate's only still white: Arneis planted in 1980 on 0.8 hectare of sandy, south-facing slope at 340 meters in Vezza d'Alba, fermented at about 15°C and kept in steel until spring. Crisp and textural; about 4,500 bottles.
  • Anterse Extra Brut Traditional-method sparkling wine of 60 percent Barbera, 30 percent Nebbiolo and 10 percent Freisa, aged at least four years on the lees and finished with 2 grams per liter of dosage. Barbera's acidity gives it a sharp, dry line.

Shop all Brovia (4)

Piedmont, framed by the Alps in northwestern Italy, is a land of rolling hills and carefully cultivated vineyards. The continental climate, with its cold winters and warm summers, creates prime conditions for the Nebbiolo grape, which dominates much of the region's red wine production. The Langhe area is home to Barolo and Barbaresco, structured red wines known for their complex aromas, firm tannins, and aging potential. While Nebbiolo is the dominant grape of Piedmont, the region also makes interesting white wines like those from Arneis and Timorasso. Alto Piemonte is a separate region in the north with its own distinctive expressions of Nebbiolo, alongside other red grape varietals.

Italy - Piedmont


Nebbiolo, a prestigious grape from Italy's Piedmont region, is celebrated for its profound truffle and rose aromas, complex flavors, and ability to age gracefully thanks to strong acidity and tannins, producing the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines.

Nebbiolo