Malvasia is less a single grape than a sprawling family of related varieties scattered across the Mediterranean, taking its name from the Greek port of Monemvasia. Its members range from the white Malvasia Istriana of Friuli and the aromatic Malvasia di Candia of central Italy to the dark-skinned Malvasia Nera of Puglia and the fortified wines of Madeira. What most share is a distinctive floral, faintly musky character and a tendency toward low acidity and generous body. It appears both as a varietal wine and as a blending partner, notably softening the Trebbiano-based whites of central Italy. Long history, enormous range, and consistently underappreciated.
