The Land
For most of the last century, Aligoté was the grape Burgundians mixed with crème de cassis to make kir, planted on whatever ground Chardonnay did not get. That reputation is badly out of date. This Bourgogne Aligoté comes from Corcelles-les-Arts, a quiet village on the flatter ground east of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, close enough to share their limestone base. The soils here are limestone and chalk heavy with marl that give Aligoté the salty, chalky edge that sets it apart from Chardonnay grown a few kilometers away. Aligoté from Burgundy has become one of the best values in white wine for exactly that reason: Côte de Beaune geology without Côte de Beaune prices.
The Wine
Domaine d'Alussia Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 is 100% Aligoté, fermented and aged in a mix of older French oak barrels and Clayver ceramic globes. The ceramic lets the wine breathe the way a barrel does without adding wood flavor, so it gains texture and mid-palate weight while the fruit stays bright. The oak is all used, there for shape rather than toast. Lemon zest and crunchy green apple lead into a slightly waxy texture, a sea-salt tang, and acidity with real electricity, finishing chalky. 2023 was Burgundy's hottest year on record, but whites were the vintage's most consistent success, and Aligoté's naturally high acidity carried the heat without going soft.
The People
Domaine d'Alussia grew out of the restructuring of the former Domaine Mischief and Mayhem, and is now based in Aloxe-Corton with plots across the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. Australian winemaker Alexandra Wilson now leads it, having trained alongside her aunt, Jane Eyre, and Benjamin Leroux, two well-known Beaune winemakers. She took full control of harvest and winemaking in 2024 and has moved the house away from the heavier oak of its past toward a lighter, more transparent style. She works with organic specialist Bernard Zito, and the Aligoté vineyard is in conversion to organic farming.
Food Pairing
Warm gougères straight from the oven are the classic Burgundian match; the acidity cuts through the gruyère and choux pastry. Steam moules marinières with shallots, butter, and parsley and the saline edge meets the brine. A warm goat cheese salad with walnuts and a sherry vinaigrette plays off the chalky finish, and fried calamari with lemon aioli gets scrubbed clean by the acid. Pour it as the first bottle of the night, while dinner is still on the stove.
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