Grange Saint Sauveur “Clandestine” 2020
We have 11 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)
The Land
Le Thoureil is a small village on the south bank of the Loire, roughly halfway between Angers and Saumur, where the river runs wide past tuffeau cliffs and limestone slopes. This is Anjou, better known for Chenin Blanc and pale, off-dry rosé than for serious red. Clandestine comes from a sunny, fossil-rich slope of clay and limestone overlooking the river, the same hillside where Alice Gitton-Pouponneau played as a child. The vines were planted in the early 1980s on a parcel of only 0.65 hectares. Limestone gives the wine its chalky finish and lift; the clay and the sun-facing aspect give it the density that Grolleau, usually a light and fruity grape, almost never shows.
The Wine
Grolleau Noir has a reputation as a rosé and bistro grape, and Clandestine exists to overturn it. Grange Saint-Sauveur "Clandestine" 2020 is mostly Grolleau Noir with some Cabernet Franc, bottled as Vin de France rouge. It ferments spontaneously, then ages 18 months in one- to three-year-old demi-muids of 400 to 600 liters, followed by another 12 months in bottle before release. The large, seasoned wood rounds the tannin without adding vanilla or toast. In past vintages this has been the domaine's darkest and most structured red: blackberry and black cherry, crushed violet, graphite and forest floor, chewy but fine-grained tannin, and a fresh, chalky finish. The 2020 alcohol sits at a moderate 13 percent, and the long élevage means it arrives with its edges already worn down.
The People
Antoine Pouponneau spent 1994 to 2006 as cellar master at Domaine de la Tour du Bon in Bandol, then a long stretch as enologist at Clos Canarelli in Corsica, two estates known for taking their native grapes seriously. He and Alice came back to Anjou, his home region, and built this micro-domaine from nothing, buying and renting small parcels of old vines one at a time. Antoine still consults for other estates, and he brings the same convictions home: vineyards farmed organically with biodynamic practices, wild-yeast fermentations, and patient aging in wood inside a centuries-old chapel next to the couple's house. Clandestine is their flagship, the wine that shows what an overlooked grape can do on a great slope.
Food Pairing
Clandestine has enough tannin and depth for real cold-weather cooking. Make a wild mushroom ragout with thyme and a splash of the wine, spooned over soft polenta; the earthy side of Grolleau mirrors the mushrooms. Roast duck breast with a sour cherry pan sauce works because the acidity slices through the fat while the dark fruit meets the cherries. Rabbit braised with mustard, shallots, and white beans is a classic Loire combination that loves this kind of chalky grip. For a weeknight, try grilled pork chops with sautéed chard and a little sherry vinegar. This is the red to open when someone at the table insists they already know everything about the Loire.
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The Loire Valley, often referred to as the "Garden of France," is a revered wine region that stretches along the Loire River, producing an array of distinct wines, including the crisp, sea-breeze influenced Muscadet near the Atlantic coast, the versatile and expressive Chenin Blanc in regions like Vouvray and Anjou, the elegantly fragrant Cabernet Franc from Chinon and Bourgueil, and the minerally complex Sauvignon Blanc-based Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from its eastern vineyards. This is a reflection of the valley's varied terroir and climate, which together foster the creation of wines that are celebrated for their finesse, diversity, and food-friendliness.
Loire Valley
Cabernet Franc is a black-skinned grape variety primarily known for its contribution to the complex, savory bouquets of Bordeaux blends, and it thrives as a varietal wine in the Loire Valley, France. It often presents a lighter body with floral and herbaceous notes, complemented by a distinctively crisp acidity and a texture that speaks to its Loire Valley terroir, where the moderate climate and diverse soils amplify its elegance and aromatic complexity.
