Jean Philippe Fichet Meursault Meix Sous le Chateau 2024
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The Land
Meix Sous le Chateau is not on the hill. It is a clos inside the village of Meursault itself, a steep, west-facing pocket ringed by houses rather than vines, which is close to the opposite of what Burgundy trains you to look for. The great Meursault premier crus face east and southeast and take the morning sun. This one takes the afternoon. Limestone sits higher in the parcel with clay beneath it, and the vines were planted in 1953. A steep west exposure inside a walled town center gives a Meursault that ripens on its own schedule, and Jean-Philippe Fichet describes it as the most buttery wine in his cellar.
The Wine
Chardonnay, hand-harvested, pressed and fermented in barrel, with malolactic finished in barrel as well. Fichet runs a six-year barrel rotation, and only a few of his wines in the strongest years see more than 20% new wood. Batonnage is limited and decided vintage by vintage according to the health of the lees. Elevage runs eighteen months. Roughly 300 cases are made. 2024 was punishing in the Cote de Beaune: rainfall more than half again the norm, downy mildew that attacked the bunches before it ever showed on the leaves, and around fifteen spray passes needed to hold it back. Fichet worked nights and weekends to stay ahead of it and chose to pick late, comparing the season to 1996 and 2007. Citrus pith, white flowers, ginger, a chalky grip, and a finish that runs longer than the weight of the wine suggests it should.
The People
Jean-Philippe Fichet is the rare grower who built a Burgundy domaine from almost nothing in the modern era. He started as a grower in 1981, then lost nearly all his best fruit sources in the 1990s, including a piece of Meursault-Perrieres, because he held no long-term contracts. He rebuilt from scratch. By 2000 he had reassembled an estate parcel by parcel through carefully negotiated fermage and metayage agreements, the work of roughly four decades. He farms by lutte raisonnee, refusing chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides, and keeps his yields low through severe winter pruning rather than by dropping fruit in summer.
Food Pairing
Halibut roasted on the bone with brown butter and lemon gives the wine something rich enough to push against without burying its citrus. Chicken poached in white wine with leeks and creme fraiche works on texture, the wine's acidity cutting straight through the sauce. Try a plate of raw oysters with nothing but a squeeze of lemon, where the salinity and the shellfish meet head-on. Or roasted cauliflower with brown butter and capers, browned hard at the edges. This is a Meursault for a long Sunday lunch that no one is in a hurry to leave.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
