Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses 2020
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The Land
Most Chinon that reaches America grows on sand and gravel terraces near the Vienne, which is why the appellation carries a reputation for light, chillable Cabernet Franc. Les Picasses is the argument against that reputation. The parcel climbs a fairly steep slope up from the riverbank, and the soil is alluvial clay over a chalk limestone base, the tuffeau that runs beneath all of Touraine. Clay holds water and slows ripening; the limestone underneath drains and drives acidity. The result is fruit with structure rather than perfume. Raffault works three soil types across 24 hectares and bottles them separately: Les Barnabés off sand and gravel, Les Peuilles off silt and clay, Les Picasses off clay and limestone. Tasted alongside each other, the three make the case for site better than any argument could.
The Wine
Cabernet Franc, hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel, then moved into large neutral oak and sometimes chestnut, a traditional cask wood here. Les Picasses spends two to three years in wood, long by modern standards, and done to soften tannin rather than add flavor. It is normally released about four years after the vintage, so this 2020 arrives past the closed, awkward phase most Cabernet Franc passes through. Light garnet color that undersells what follows: cassis, dark cherry, orange zest, tobacco leaf and damp earth, with fine tannin and a long mineral finish. 2020 was warm, dry and record-early across Touraine, picking beginning in late August, with no frost. It could have produced heavy wines and did not. Nights stayed cool, and the early start caught phenolic ripeness before sugars ran away.
The People
Settle one thing first: Olga Raffault never made the wine. She owned the estate, memorably, for many years, and her name stayed on the label. It is run today by her granddaughter Sylvie and her husband Eric de la Vigerie, with Arnaud now on the proprietor line as well. Farming is certified organic. The house method has barely moved in decades — hand harvest, stainless fermentation, long aging in old wood, late release — and that last part is the real signature. Raffault holds stock back and releases at an age most producers cannot afford to wait for, which is why the domaine has cult standing as a benchmark for Chinon terroir. Sylvie's harvest notes read like a farmer's diary rather than marketing copy: mildew in the sandy sectors, the date they started in Picasses, whether the vines were in top shape.
Food Pairing
Cabernet Franc with this much acid and fine tannin wants savory, herb-driven cooking, not char. Roast pork loin with prunes and mustard is the Loire answer, and the cherry-and-earth register meets it exactly. Duck leg confit with lentils works for the same reason: fat needs acid. Lamb shoulder braised with rosemary and white beans gives the tannin something to grip. And do not skip the goat cheese — a Sainte-Maure with a glass of this is the most Loire thing you can do at your own table. Serve it at 60 degrees.
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The Loire Valley, often referred to as the "Garden of France," is a revered wine region that stretches along the Loire River, producing an array of distinct wines, including the crisp, sea-breeze influenced Muscadet near the Atlantic coast, the versatile and expressive Chenin Blanc in regions like Vouvray and Anjou, the elegantly fragrant Cabernet Franc from Chinon and Bourgueil, and the minerally complex Sauvignon Blanc-based Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from its eastern vineyards. This is a reflection of the valley's varied terroir and climate, which together foster the creation of wines that are celebrated for their finesse, diversity, and food-friendliness.
Loire Valley
Cabernet Franc is a black-skinned grape variety primarily known for its contribution to the complex, savory bouquets of Bordeaux blends, and it thrives as a varietal wine in the Loire Valley, France. It often presents a lighter body with floral and herbaceous notes, complemented by a distinctively crisp acidity and a texture that speaks to its Loire Valley terroir, where the moderate climate and diverse soils amplify its elegance and aromatic complexity.
