Emmerich Knoll Loibner Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 2025
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The Land
The Wachau is a narrow stretch of the Danube west of Krems where vines climb dry-stone terraces above the river. Unterloiben sits at its eastern end, just downstream from Dürnstein, and that position matters. Two climates collide here: cold air drains down from the Waldviertel forests to the north, while warm Pannonian air pushes in from the east, and the river holds heat into the autumn nights. The eastern villages feel more of that warmth, so Grüner Veltliner ripens fully while keeping its acid. The Loibner Federspiel comes from parcels around the village at about 220 meters, south-facing, on alluvial sandy loess over the gneiss that forms the backbone of the Wachau. Loess on the lower slopes is classic Grüner Veltliner ground, giving more spice and a rounder texture than bare rock higher up.
The Wine
One hundred percent Grüner Veltliner, hand-harvested, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old wooden casks, and left on its lees for about three months before bottling. Federspiel is the Vinea Wachau middle tier, capped between 11.5 and 12.5 percent alcohol, and the name comes from falconry, the feathered lure used to call a hawk back. The short lees contact adds a little texture without dulling the fruit, and the old casks give breadth with no oak flavor. Expect green apple, lemon, a little white flower, and the white pepper that Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau is known for, then a lively, salty finish. The 2025 vintage was cool in character: a mild, dry winter, frost and hail in spring, a rainy July and far fewer heat days than 2024. Grüner held up well through a stop-start harvest, and the wines are slim, bright and peppery.
The People
The Knoll family has grown grapes in Unterloiben since the early 19th century, began bottling commercially in 1947, and put the baroque Saint Urban label on its wines in the early 1960s. That label, modeled on the statue of the vineyard patron saint in the village, has barely changed since, and it is one of the most recognizable in Austrian wine. Emmerich Knoll senior built the estate's international standing, and the next generation of the family runs it today. The family are members of Vinea Wachau, the growers' association founded in 1983 that created the Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd categories. The house style is patient: fully ripe fruit, large neutral casks, no new oak and late releases. The family also runs the Loibnerhof, a 400-year-old restaurant in the village, and the wines are made for the table.
Food Pairing
Pork Schnitzel with Creamy Cucumber, Dill & Mustard Seed Salad
Grüner Veltliner and schnitzel is an Austrian classic for a reason. Bright acidity cuts beautifully through the crisp schnitzel, while the wine’s peppery, herbal character plays off the dill, cucumber and toasted mustard seed. Find the full recipe on our blog.
Note: Photo shows the 2024 Ried Trum - this is not that wine.
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Grüner Veltliner is Austria's signature grape, producing distinctive dry white wines celebrated for their vibrant character. Primarily grown in regions like Wachau, Kremstal, and Kamptal, Grüner Veltliner is known for its high acidity and a compelling savory edge, often displaying notes of white pepper and spice alongside green and citrus fruit. The wines are typically medium-bodied and exceptionally food-friendly, offering a unique combination of freshness and complexity. Grüner Veltliner is a grape that is clearly expressive of its origins, and it is a cornerstone of Austrian winemaking excellence.
