Davide Carlone Boca 2020
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The Land
Most people hear Piedmont and think Barolo, but Boca sits far to the north, in Alto Piemonte, up against the Alps where the season is cooler and the soils are volcanic. This is Nebbiolo country of a different kind. The vineyards rest on the porphyry and volcanic rock of the ancient Valsesia supervolcano, at 380 to 450 meters, facing south and southwest for the sun they need at this altitude. Volcanic soil, elevation, and cold Alpine nights give the wines of Boca a lighter frame, higher acidity, and a savory, mineral edge that sets them apart from the richer Nebbiolos of the Langhe to the south. The terroir is very similar to the more famous Gattinara which sits on the other side of the river Sesia.
The Wine
Nebbiolo, known locally as Spanna, with the traditional Boca partners Vespolina and Croatina, much of it from vines close to a century old. It is aged in large oak botti in the old way, which softens the tannins without adding oak flavor. The wine is pale and perfumed in the Nebbiolo way: red cherry, dried rose, blood orange, tobacco, and a smoky, iron-like savory edge from the volcanic soil, over fine, firm tannins and bright acidity. 2020 was a balanced vintage in Alto Piemonte, with ripe fruit alongside the firm structure these wines are built on. It is ready to enjoy now and will keep for a few more years.
The People
Davide Carlone is one of the leading figures in the revival of Alto Piemonte, a region that had nearly vanished before a handful of growers brought it back. He founded his estate in Boca in the 1990s and farms around 11 hectares of volcanic hillside organically, working naturally in the cellar for texture and transparency. Much of his vineyard is old vines, some around 100 years old, planted to Nebbiolo, Vespolina, and Croatina. His aim is not power but clarity, wines that carry the specific stamp of Boca's volcanic soil and cool mountain climate.
Food Pairing
Alpine Nebbiolo belongs with hearty mountain food. Serve it with brasato or braised beef, mushroom risotto, roast guinea hen, or a plate of aged Alpine cheeses like Bra or Toma. The firm tannins and high acidity cut through fat and stand up to slow-cooked meats, while the perfume makes it a natural with anything mushroom or truffle. Decant it an hour ahead.
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Piedmont, framed by the Alps in northwestern Italy, is a land of rolling hills and carefully cultivated vineyards. The continental climate, with its cold winters and warm summers, creates prime conditions for the Nebbiolo grape, which dominates much of the region's red wine production. The Langhe area is home to Barolo and Barbaresco, structured red wines known for their complex aromas, firm tannins, and aging potential. While Nebbiolo is the dominant grape of Piedmont, the region also makes interesting white wines like those from Arneis and Timorasso. Alto Piemonte is a separate region in the north with its own distinctive expressions of Nebbiolo, alongside other red grape varietals.
Italy - Piedmont
Nebbiolo, a prestigious grape from Italy's Piedmont region, is celebrated for its profound truffle and rose aromas, complex flavors, and ability to age gracefully thanks to strong acidity and tannins, producing the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines.
