The Land
Before it made wine, Capaccia was a fort. The medieval hamlet dates to the 13th century, when it served as a strategic outpost in the wars between Florence and Siena. Today Podere Capaccia sits at 550 meters on a hill above the Pesa River valley in northern Radda in Chianti, ringed by steep woods, with Montevertine and Castello di Albola as neighbors. Radda is one of the highest and coolest communes in Chianti Classico, and that altitude slows ripening and keeps Sangiovese taut and aromatic. The estate's vineyards face south, catch constant summer breezes, and grow in soils rich in sandstone, limestone, and shale, ground that gives Radda Sangiovese its fine tannin and lift.
The Wine
Podere Capaccia Chianti Classico 2022 is Sangiovese from a drought year that turned at the last moment. The winter of 2021 to 2022 was very dry, spring and summer brought no relief, and yields across Tuscany fell. Rains in mid to late August and early September proved the vintage's saving grace, and cool nights helped preserve acidity; Chianti Classico's Sangiovese harvest began around September 10. At this altitude, that late-season rain arrived in time. The estate's Chianti Classico is typically 100% Sangiovese, hand harvested in late September, sorted berry by berry, fermented in stainless steel for about four weeks, and aged around 18 months in 25-hectoliter oak casks. Expect dark cherry and red mulberry with violet, cinnamon, and a peppery leaf edge, firm acidity, and a mineral, slightly brackish finish.
The People
Owners Herman De Bode and Fanny Huygen bought Capaccia in 2010 with a clear brief: restore the medieval buildings, revive the old vineyards, and make one of Italy's best wines. They built an underground cellar beneath the hamlet and assembled a small technical team. Winemaker and director Alyson Morgan, a UC Davis graduate, has run the cellar since 2012 and brings two decades of experience in Chianti Classico. Vineyard manager Donato Alvino has tended the estate's vines for more than 20 years, through the change in ownership, across parcels with names like Cortaccio and Le Campanelle. The estate farms organically and was listed as in organic conversion by the Chianti Classico consortium. Production stays small.
Food Pairing
Grill a bistecca alla fiorentina over oak coals and finish it with olive oil and coarse salt; Sangiovese's acidity and tannin cut through the char and fat. Pici with a slow-cooked duck ragù matches the wine's dark cherry core. Ribollita with Tuscan kale and cannellini picks up the herbal, peppery edge. For an easy plate, try pecorino Toscano with fig jam and walnuts, where the acid lifts the salt. This is Chianti Classico from Radda the way locals drink it: with dinner, any night of the week.
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