Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Blanc "Les Graviers" 2024
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The Land
Chambolle-Musigny is red wine country, home to some of the most sought-after Pinot Noir vineyards in Burgundy, which makes a white wine from here something of an anomaly. In the mid-2010s, Ghislaine Barthod and her son Clement planted a half-hectare parcel to Chardonnay, giving the domaine its first white wine in nearly a century of production. The plot takes its name, Les Graviers, from the gravel running through its topsoil, part of the same limestone and gravel terroir that defines Barthod's red Chambolle crus. It is a small planting inside a domaine built almost entirely on red Burgundy, farmed with the same attention as the reds around it.
The Wine
100% Chardonnay, aged one year in a 50/50 split of used 500-liter oak barrels and terracotta jars, an unusual choice in Burgundy that keeps oak influence to a minimum. 2024 was one of the most difficult growing seasons in the Cote d'Or in decades: relentless spring rain, persistent mildew pressure, and collapsed yields across much of Burgundy, in some cases by 50-80%. The fruit that survived the selection made wines of real precision, with more cut and energy than the riper vintages of recent years. The wine shows a resinous, honeyed bouquet with dried apricot and pineapple, a sleek, pure-fruited palate, and a long, clinging finish with almost no detectable oak.
The People
Domaine Barthod-Noellat was founded in the late 1920s, a union of the Noellat and Barthod families. Ghislaine Barthod trained under her father Gaston in the 1980s before taking over the domaine, building a reputation over four decades as one of Chambolle-Musigny's most precise producers across nine premier cru sites plus village and Bourgogne-level parcels. Her son Clement has worked alongside her since the mid-2010s and has taken an increasing role in the vineyards and cellar, including the decision to plant the estate's first Chardonnay. The wine is an experimental addition to a domaine otherwise defined by red Pinot Noir, made with the same exacting, hands-on approach that guides the reds.
Food Pairing
Les Graviers has enough weight and texture to work as a first course or a main. Try it with roasted chicken with lemon and tarragon, a wedge of aged Comte, pan-seared scallops with brown butter, or a mushroom vol-au-vent. Its honeyed richness pairs naturally with nutty, savory dishes, while the underlying cut keeps it from feeling heavy alongside richer plates. It is an unexpected way to bring Chambolle-Musigny character to the table without opening one of the reds.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
