Borgogno e Carbone Langhe Nebbiolo 2023
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The Land
A Langhe Nebbiolo label allows fruit from almost anywhere in the Langhe hills, and plenty of bottles use that freedom. This one does not. The grapes come from Fabrizio Borgogno's family vineyards in Verduno, the northernmost of the eleven Barolo communes, on the ridge where the Langhe drops toward the Tanaro river. The vines sit at 350 to 400 meters on sandy soils. Verduno's reputation among Barolo insiders rests on that combination: the sandier ground and cooler northern position produce Nebbiolo with more perfume and lift and less brute tannin than the famous communes to the south. The town is also the home of Pelaverga and of the Monvigliero cru. So this is Nebbiolo from a Barolo commune, bottled under the broader Langhe DOC.
The Wine
The Borgogno e Carbone Langhe Nebbiolo 2023 is 100 percent Nebbiolo, picked by hand and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts on the skins in stainless steel. It then rests in neutral oak for less than a year and is bottled young, so the fruit arrives without new-wood flavor. Expect sour red cherry, orange peel, dried rose and a streak of earth and wet stone, with fine, dusty tannin, bright acid and a dried-cherry finish. It runs 14.5 percent alcohol but reads lighter than that. The 2023 Langhe season was a run of extremes. Spring rains in May and June broke the drought left over from 2022, a violent hailstorm hit the hills around Alba on July 6, and a hot, dry summer followed. Many growers reported yields down 20 to 30 percent, but Nebbiolo ripened slowly into October with good color and firm, clean tannin.
The People
Fabrizio "Ito" Borgogno and Stefano Carbone were in the wine trade long before they had their own label. The two are best friends, run a company importing French producers into Piedmont, and own Osteria More e Macine in La Morra, known for classic Piedmontese cooking and a deep wine list. Fabrizio's family had grown grapes in Verduno for generations and, like many Langhe families, sold the fruit. In 2019 the two friends decided to stop selling and start bottling, working the vineyards by hand. For its first few vintages the Langhe Nebbiolo was poured almost entirely at their own restaurant tables. They have since added a Barolo from the Perno Vigna Santo Stefano vineyard in Monforte d'Alba. The labels are drawn by the artist Quentin Maza.
Food Pairing
Start where the wine started, with the food at More e Macine. Tajarin with butter and sage or with a slow veal ragù is the classic: the acid cuts the egg-rich pasta and the tannin handles the fat. Vitello tonnato, thin slices of cold veal under a tuna and caper sauce, works because the wine has enough acid to meet the sauce without the heavy tannin that would clash with fish. Risotto with porcini picks up the earthy side of Verduno Nebbiolo. This is a restaurateur's house red in the literal sense, the bottle the owners pour for themselves, and it belongs on a Tuesday table as much as a Saturday one.
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Piedmont, framed by the Alps in northwestern Italy, is a land of rolling hills and carefully cultivated vineyards. The continental climate, with its cold winters and warm summers, creates prime conditions for the Nebbiolo grape, which dominates much of the region's red wine production. The Langhe area is home to Barolo and Barbaresco, structured red wines known for their complex aromas, firm tannins, and aging potential. While Nebbiolo is the dominant grape of Piedmont, the region also makes interesting white wines like those from Arneis and Timorasso. Alto Piemonte is a separate region in the north with its own distinctive expressions of Nebbiolo, alongside other red grape varietals.
Italy - Piedmont
Nebbiolo, a prestigious grape from Italy's Piedmont region, is celebrated for its profound truffle and rose aromas, complex flavors, and ability to age gracefully thanks to strong acidity and tannins, producing the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines.
Nebbiolo
Practicing Organic vineyard farming involves growing grapes using organic methods—avoiding synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides—but without formal certification. Wineries adopting this approach prioritize environmental health, soil vitality, and biodiversity, using natural practices such as composting, cover cropping, and manual pest control. Many small wineries opt for practicing organic methods rather than pursuing official organic certification, primarily due to the significant cost, paperwork, and time commitment involved in certification processes. As a result, practicing organic is a popular choice among boutique and artisanal producers who remain committed to sustainable agriculture while managing budgetary constraints.
