Domaine P&L Borgeot Bourgogne Rouge 2023
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The Land
Regional Bourgogne is usually treated as the leftovers, but the address matters more than the label suggests. Domaine P&L Borgeot is based in Remigny, a village of about 420 people four kilometers south of Chassagne-Montrachet and three kilometers east of Santenay, sitting on the hinge where the Cote de Beaune hands off to the Cote Chalonnaise. This is the southern end of the Cote d'Or, where the slope flattens, the limestone thins into more clay and marl, and the prices stop being absurd. The domaine farms 23 hectares across Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, and grows only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Aligote. Cool nights off the Morvan hills to the west keep the acid in the fruit, and the flatter ground here ripens Pinot Noir a touch earlier than the grand cru slope a few kilometers north.
The Wine
Pinot Noir, from a producer whose serious work is in Santenay premier cru. The 2023 vintage in the Cote de Beaune is the story here. It was the largest harvest in Burgundy's recorded history at roughly 1.9 million hectoliters, driven not just by bunch count but by bunch size, with clusters running around 180 grams against a normal 90. Dilution was the central danger for reds, and the vintage split cleanly between growers who green-harvested and thinned hard and those who did not. Picking in the Cote de Beaune started at the end of August; a September heat spike pushed temperatures into the mid-30s Celsius until a storm on the 11th, and sugars climbed fast in those final days. The wine that resulted is bright and red-fruited: cherry, cranberry, rose petal and turned earth, with light, powdery tannin and brisk acid running the length of it. Drink it over the next three or four years.
The People
The domaine dates to 1903 and is run by brothers Pascal and Laurent Borgeot, the fourth generation of their family in Remigny. They built the modern estate starting in 1985 around a handful of Santenay parcels inherited from their father, and expanded north into Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet over the following decades. In the vineyards they work by lutte raisonnee, doing everything they can to avoid reaching for pesticides. Between 2007 and 2009 they rebuilt the cellar with a climate-controlled cuverie, two pneumatic presses and storage for 60,000 bottles, which is the kind of unglamorous investment that shows up in the entry-level wines first. Julia Borgeot, Pascal's daughter, now works alongside them.
Food Pairing
Roast chicken with tarragon and creme fraiche pan sauce is the default and it is the right one, because the wine has enough acid to cut the cream and not enough tannin to fight the bird. Coq au vin or a beef bourguignon done with restraint works for the same reason. Lentils braised with bacon and carrots meet the earthy side directly. And a plate of charcuterie with cornichons and grainy mustard needs nothing more than this and a baguette. Serve it cool, around 60 degrees. This is the red you keep a case of for weeknights when takeout would have been the easier call.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
