Frank Cornelissen “Magma” 2021
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The Land
Contrada Barbabecchi hangs on terraces above the village of Solicchiata at 870 to 910 meters, facing north to northeast in Etna's northern valley. This is close to the ceiling of viticulture on the mountain, which is why the wine carries a Terre Siciliane designation rather than Etna DOC. The soil is pure volcanic sand, porous enough that phylloxera never established itself, so the alberello vines here grow on their own roots. The 2021 season had no real winter, no snow in the lower vineyards, light March frost, and then relentless drought, the driest year Cornelissen had farmed to that point.
The Wine
There was no Magma in 2007 or 2018; Cornelissen skips his flagship entirely rather than bottle a vintage without full phenolic ripeness. When it is made, it is 100 percent Nerello Mascalese from the ungrafted old vines of Barbabecchi, destemmed and lightly crushed, fermented with indigenous yeasts through roughly 50 days on the skins, then aged in neutral epoxy tanks and bottle, never oak. In 2021 the Magma parcels were picked October 16, the earliest date in the estate's history, after drought cut yields about 25 percent; October rain arrived just in time to restore sugar-acid balance. Dried strawberry, blood orange, baking spice, and flint over fine, dense tannin, 14.5 percent alcohol, with a smoky mineral finish that unwinds for a full minute.
The People
Cornelissen arrived from Belgium in 2001 chasing a Burgundian idea, a single Grand Vin from a single site, and planted his flag on a volcano to do it. Magma 1 came from a tiny parcel that first year, and the wine has remained the estate's summit ever since, made without additions in the cellar and farmed without synthetic chemistry on the terraces. In his own 2021 vintage report he names Magma one of his preferred wines of the year for its overall balance, notable candor from a grower who publicly rates his own difficult vintages.
Food Pairing
Seared duck breast with a cherry and balsamic pan sauce, where Nerello's red-fruit acidity behaves like fine Burgundy. Porcini risotto finished with aged caciocavallo, since earthy umami meets the wine's flint and smoke. Grilled lamb chops with rosemary and anchovy butter, which give the tannins protein and salt to work against. Or simply a wedge of two-year pecorino after dinner. A bottle for the night you have been saving for a reason, and worth decanting an hour ahead.
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Sicily, Italy’s largest island, blends ancient wine traditions with a fresh wave of modern creativity. Its star red grape, Nero d’Avola, thrives in the island’s warm, sun-soaked climate, producing intensely flavored wines with dark fruit and a hint of savory spice. Along the western coast lies the historic heartland of Marsala, a fortified wine prized for both sweet and dry styles. Rising above the island’s varied landscapes is Mount Etna, an active volcano whose mineral-rich soils and cooler elevations result in elegantly structured reds and nuanced whites. From coast to crater, Sicily’s wine culture is as diverse and vibrant as the region itself.
Italy - Sicily
Named for its pale color and hometown of Mascali, Nerello Mascalese is a rising star in the wine world. Indigenous to Mount Etna, it was overlooked for decades until recently the world has taken notice of the elegant yet powerfully minerally wines produced on the volcanic slopes. Think halfway between Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.
