Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 2023
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The Land
The village-level Chambolle-Musigny comes from nine small parcels scattered across the appellation, a patchwork rather than a single site. Chambolle's soils are thinner and sparer than the neighboring villages of Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin: limestone gravel over a shallow layer of topsoil, ground that tends toward finesse rather than power. Pulling from parcels across the village rather than one plot gives this bottling a broader read on Chambolle's character, several small expressions of the same limestone base brought together.
The Wine
100% Pinot Noir, partially destemmed, fermented with only native yeast. As with the rest of the domaine's wines, the slow start that comes with wild yeast fermentation gives the must several days of natural cold maceration before fermentation takes hold. After fermentation, the wine is racked into small barrels, roughly 20 to 25% new oak, and aged for about a year and a half. The 2023 season required heavy green-harvesting, with 30 to 50% of bunches dropped to control yields, and some acetic rot near the forest edge that had to be sorted out at harvest, which began in early September. Expect crunchy, spiky red fruit with a morello cherry edge and a bright, cherry-stone bitterness that carries into the finish.
The People
The Domaine Barthod-Noellat traces back to the late 1920s, a merger of two Chambolle families. Gaston Barthod took over direction in the 1950s, and his daughter Ghislaine began working alongside him in the 1980s before eventually taking over the estate herself, building a reputation as one of Chambolle's most precise producers. As of the 2023 vintage, her son Clément has taken over winemaking at the domaine, introducing changes like smaller stainless steel fermentation tanks for some parcels, while keeping the same commitment to partial destemming and native-yeast fermentation. The domaine's holdings run to 5.86 hectares across some of the village's best sites.
Food Pairing
Roast chicken with thyme, a mushroom and gruyere tart, grilled salmon with a light red wine reduction, or a simple charcuterie board with rillettes and cornichons. This is the least expensive way into Chambolle-Musigny's style, light enough for a Tuesday, structured enough for something more.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the CĂ´te d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the CĂ´te d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.
