Jade Gross Chiguita Tempranillo Blanco 2025
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The Land
Tempranillo Blanco is one of the newest grapes in one of Spain's oldest regions. It appeared in 1988 near Murillo de Río Leza, when a grower noticed a single cluster on a Tempranillo vine turning golden-green instead of black at veraison. Spain's agricultural research service propagated it, and the Rioja Consejo Regulador authorized it in 2007. Gross sources hers from the Alto Najerilla, the cold western valley that climbs out of Rioja Alta toward the Sierra de la Demanda, where the vines sit on clay-ferrous soil. That iron-rich clay and the valley's altitude are why a grape that could easily turn broad and tropical instead comes in tight and citric.
The Wine
One hundred percent Tempranillo Blanco, only the second time Gross has bottled it on its own. Hand-harvested on September 10, 2025 and pressed as whole bunches with no crushing, the juice went directly into a single 500-liter French oak barrel to ferment and stayed there another six months on its fine lees. One barrel, start to finish, which is why the bottles are individually numbered. Yellow apple, quince and grapefruit pith up front, then anise and a waxy, lanolin texture from the lees, and a finish that turns stony and long. At 14 percent alcohol it has real weight, but the acid holds the line. Drink it now or leave it three years.
The People
The Chiguita program is how Jade Gross is teaching herself Rioja's white grapes. Alongside the blended bottling she makes three separate microvinifications, roughly 150 bottles each of Tempranillo Blanco, Viura and Garnacha Blanca, handled identically so she can watch each variety age on its own terms before deciding what belongs in a blend. The fruit comes from a deliberately scattered network of growers, from limestone around Labastida to the cold Alto Najerilla valley, because she thinks most drinkers see one facet of a region that holds many. Her palate is the part of the chef that carried over intact; she has said she finds aromas in wine that never appear on the WSET tasting wheel, and she holds the Diploma. What did not carry over is the tempo. In a kitchen she could taste a dish, fix it, and cook it again the next day. Here the answer arrives a year later.
Food Pairing
The barrel and the lees mean this can handle fat. Bacalao al pil-pil, where the emulsified olive oil and garlic meet that waxy texture directly. Grilled turbot or halibut with nothing but lemon and good oil, letting the stony finish do the work. Roast chicken thighs with garlic and thyme. Or a wedge of aged Idiazábal with quince paste, which picks up the fruit and the salt at once. A serious white for people who have gotten bored of the obvious ones.
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Rioja, Spain's iconic wine region nestled in the north-central part of the country, is defined by its diverse landscape and Tempranillo-based wines. The region is divided into three distinct subregions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja), each contributing unique characteristics based on altitude, soil composition, and climate. While Tempranillo dominates, other important grapes include Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo for reds, and Viura (Macabeo) for whites. Rioja's modern winemaking style was significantly shaped by the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, which devastated vineyards across Europe. As French winemakers sought refuge and new sources of wine, they brought their techniques to Rioja, introducing oak aging and influencing the development of the region's distinctive, internationally recognized style.
Spain - Rioja
Tempranillo, Spain's most celebrated red grape, takes its name from the Spanish word "temprano," meaning "early," a reference to the variety's tendency to ripen earlier than other Spanish grapes. This versatility allows it to thrive across a range of climates and soil types. Though primarily associated with Spain, where it forms the backbone of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and other prominent regions, Tempranillo also has a significant presence in Portugal. Here, it's known under various synonyms, including Tinta Roriz, Aragonez, and Tinto Fino, playing a crucial role in the production of both red and rosé wines. Its ability to produce wines with moderate acidity, balanced tannins, and complex flavors of red fruit, leather, and tobacco make it a favorite among winemakers and wine drinkers alike.
