The Land
Nearly every vineyard in Europe stands on American rootstock, grafted after phylloxera swept the continent. This Albariño grows on its own roots. The La Escusa vineyard sits in Barrantes, in the Ribadumia valley of Val do Salnés, just 2 to 7 meters above sea level where the Umia River runs into the Ría de Arousa. Salnés is the coolest, wettest of the five Rías Baixas sub-zones, with fog off the Atlantic and more than 1,700 mm of rain a year. The soils are loose, free-draining granite sand, the reason phylloxera never took hold here. Vines climb traditional pergolas that lift the fruit into the breeze and away from mildew. That combination of sand, salt air, and constant moisture is what gives Salnés Albariño its cut.
The Wine
Lagar de Pintos Albariño Pie Franco 2022 is 100% Albariño from ungrafted vines planted in 1980. Fermentation and aging take place in large neutral oak foudres, with 12 months on the lees before bottling and a further rest in the cellar before release. The foudre adds breadth without a trace of wood flavor, and the long lees contact builds a dense, chalky texture under the acidity. In past vintages the wine has shown lemon zest, green melon, pear skin, fennel, sea spray, and crushed stone, ending long and salty. Expect the 2022 to carry a little more weight: the Galician summer ran very warm and dry, yields dropped, skins thickened, and Salnés Albariño reached 13 to 13.5% alcohol, high for the area, while holding its natural acidity.
The People
Lagar de Pintos is a fourth-generation family estate based in a stone pazo in Ribadumia, with buildings dating to the late 1800s. The property began as a farmstead raising sheep and cows; vines came in the 1950s, and Marta Castro-Pintos's father, Pepe, modernized the winery in the 1980s. The name comes from a century-old stone lagar, or treading trough, Marta played in as a child. She studied enology at the Polytechnic University of Madrid, took over from her father, and in the 2000s converted the vineyards to organic farming, an early move in Rías Baixas. Her sister Carmen runs the business side, making this a women-owned and operated winery. Marta's goal is white wine with the structure to age for decades, and the Pie Franco is the clearest case for it.
Food Pairing
This is Albariño from Rías Baixas with enough texture for richer seafood. Try seared sea scallops with brown butter, capers, and lemon, where the acidity cuts the butter and the lees texture matches the scallop. Razor clams a la plancha with garlic, parsley, and good olive oil echo the wine's salinity. Hake in salsa verde with clams and peas is the Basque classic and a natural fit. Or open it with a wedge of Tetilla cheese and marcona almonds. Pour it slightly cool, not cold, and let it open over an hour. A bottle worth putting on the table when the seafood is the main event.
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