The Land
Growing red grapes on the Mosel was illegal until Ulrich Stein sued to overturn the ban. That single fact explains a great deal about this estate and this bottle. Stein works out of Alf and Bullay on the lower Mosel, on terraced blue Devonian slate slopes so steep that mechanization is impossible and yields are among the lowest anywhere in the world of wine. Slate is the whole story here: it absorbs heat during the day and gives it back overnight, it drains completely, and it forces roots deep into fractured rock. In a region this far north, that stored warmth is the difference between ripening and not. It also leaves the smoky, stony signature that runs through everything grown on it, red or white.
The Wine
Pinot Noir, sometimes with a little Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot depending on the year, which is only possible because of the legal fight mentioned above. Fermentation starts spontaneously with native yeast, as with every wine at the estate; nothing is fined, and sulfur additions are kept very low. The result is a rosé with more structure and less confection than the category usually delivers: crunchy red currant and wild strawberry, pink grapefruit, dried herbs, and a hard slate-driven mineral streak, with acidity that is genuinely brisk rather than merely present and a dry, savory finish. It is pale and it is not sweet. This is a Mosel wine that happens to be pink rather than a rosé that happens to come from the Mosel.
The People
Heinrich and Erna Stein founded the estate in 1948, and it passed to their sons Ulrich and Peter in 1982. Ulli Stein has spent the decades since as one of German wine's most persistent contrarians: rescuing abandoned terraces on slopes nobody else would farm, campaigning loudly for the preservation of steep-slope viticulture in a region steadily abandoning it, and taking the regulators to court over red grapes and winning. The estate is roughly 80% Riesling with Spätburgunder, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Elbling filling out the rest. Everything ferments spontaneously and nothing is fined.
Food Pairing
Dry, mineral, and structured enough to sit down to dinner. Grilled sausages with mustard, a salade niçoise, salmon with dill, or charcuterie and radishes with good butter and salt. The acidity and slate cut through fat and salt cleanly, and there is no residual sugar to fight a vinaigrette. Serve it cold but not frozen, and treat it as a summer red rather than a poolside pour.
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