Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Aligote 2023
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The Land
Aligote is Burgundy's other white grape, the one long dismissed as thin and sour, fit only for splashing into a Kir. Sylvain Pataille has done more than anyone to prove that reputation wrong. His Bourgogne Aligote comes from old vines around Marsannay at the northern end of the Cote de Nuits, split between two sites: Champ Forey, on limestone and gravel, and Auvonnes, on clay and marl studded with small stones. That same limestone and marl grows serious Pinot Noir, and in the right hands it gives Aligote a structure and minerality closer to premier cru white Burgundy than to the simple carafe wine most people expect.
The Wine
100% Aligote Dore, the finer old strain of the grape, from vines averaging 50 years old. The fruit is direct-pressed and fermented with ambient yeast, roughly two-thirds in used barrels and one-third in tank, then aged about 12 months with only a small amount of sulfur added at bottling. 2023 was a strong year for white Burgundy, bright and precise, and it shows here as mineral freshness, citrus, and white flowers over a taut, balanced palate with real length. There is nothing thin about it; this is Aligote made with the seriousness usually reserved for Chardonnay.
The People
Sylvain Pataille is the grape's most persuasive advocate, a grower who deliberately hangs onto tiny parcels of ancient Aligote vines that others would have pulled out long ago. He founded his Marsannay domaine in 1999 with a single hectare and now farms around 17 hectares, certified organic and worked biodynamically, with horse-ploughing, high-density planting, and very low yields. Trained as an oenologist and once a sought-after consultant, he built his own reputation partly on reviving a grape the rest of Burgundy had written off. His Aligotes are now benchmarks, and they have pulled the whole category up with them.
Food Pairing
Aligote is a natural with Burgundian classics. Pour it with warm gougeres, a dozen oysters, escargots in garlic butter, or a round of tangy goat cheese. Its high acidity and saline cut make it ideal for briny and buttery dishes alike, and it is bright enough to wake up fried fish or a simple green salad with vinaigrette. Serve it well chilled as an aperitif, or bring it to the table with the first course.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Aligoté is a historic white grape of Burgundy, long overshadowed by Chardonnay but increasingly valued for its freshness and versatility. First documented in the region in the 18th century, it was traditionally used in everyday wines or blended with crème de cassis for Kir. Today, quality-minded producers—especially in Bouzeron, the only communal AOC dedicated to the grape—are showing its potential when grown on limestone soils and handled with care. Aligoté typically offers high acidity, light body, and flavors of green apple, citrus, and subtle herbal notes, making it a crisp, food-friendly alternative to richer white varieties.
Aligote
Practicing Biodynamic vineyard farming follows the core principles of biodynamics—treating the vineyard as a self-sustaining, living organism and aligning farming activities with lunar and cosmic rhythms—but without formal certification. These vineyards often use compost preparations, herbal sprays, and homeopathic remedies to nourish the soil and promote vine health, while fostering biodiversity and natural balance. Many small or artisan producers embrace biodynamics philosophically and practically but choose not to pursue certification due to its cost, administrative demands, or philosophical preference for independence. As a result, practicing biodynamic farms often reflect a deep, holistic commitment to the land, even without the official label.
