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Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 1.5L

$158.00

We have 2 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

The most famous name in Volnay makes its least expensive white from the flattest ground in the commune. D'Angerville's Aligoté comes from about 0.4 hectares in the lieu-dit Monpoulain, two plots on the eastern side of Volnay, out on the level land below the hillside where the premier crus sit. Aligoté is a naturally high-acid grape, so this flatter, richer ground gives it some body without taking away its bite. That is the logic of the wine: a sharp grape on a site that fills it out just enough. The plot gets the same biodynamic farming as the Clos des Ducs, which is unusual care for an appellation-level white.

The Wine

The Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 is 100% Aligoté, bottled early in the summer after harvest to keep its snap. 2023 was a warm, abundant vintage in the Côte de Beaune, and the domaine brought in a full crop with only light sorting and no green harvesting. The house style is pale and bright: citrus and orchard fruit, the slightly bitter grip of Aligoté skins, a metallic, stony minerality and salinity through a broad, mouth-filling middle. The warm year gives a little more body than usual without dulling the acidity. Drink it over the next two to three years, cold, while it still has its edge.

The People

François Duvivier is the reason d'Angerville's smallest wines get the same attention as its greatest. Guillaume d'Angerville put him in charge of the vines and cellar in 2005, two years after taking over the domaine, and he has led the farming through the biodynamic conversion that began in 2006 and the run of hail, drought and frost that followed. In 2023 he and Guillaume picked only in the mornings to keep the fruit cool, and that goes for the Aligoté as much as the premier crus. The two also built Domaine du Pélican in the Jura together, which says something about how far that partnership has gone.

Food Pairing

A magnum of Aligoté is a party wine, and it wants party food. Steam mussels in white wine, shallots and parsley and set the pot in the middle of the table. A board of jambon persillé, cornichons and crusty bread is what Burgundians would serve. Fried chicken with lemon and flaky salt shows how well its acidity cuts fat, and a croque monsieur with Gruyère is the brunch answer. Chill the magnum for two hours, put it in a bucket of ice, and pour it for twelve.

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The Producer

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville


The Terroir

One family farms roughly a tenth of Volnay's premier cru land: 11.2 hectares of it, plus a premier cru in Meursault and a sliver of Pommard. The anchor is the Clos des Ducs, a walled 2.15-hectare monopole at the top of the slope directly behind the family house. Its 52 ouvrées measure the same today as in the vineyard's first recorded mention, in 1507. The soil is thin, stony limestone and white marl on a steep, well-drained pitch facing south-east, and it gives a firmer, slower-opening wine than the Volnays farther down the slope.

Champans is the largest holding at 3.98 hectares, followed by Fremiets (1.57) on the Pommard side, Taillepieds (1.07), Clos des Angles (1.03, with the estate's oldest premier cru vines at 60 to 65 years) and Caillerets (0.45). Another 1.05 hectares of Meursault 1er Cru Santenots supply the white. The vines carry the family's own small-berried strain of Pinot Noir, high in skin and natural tannin, which the BIVB has since propagated for growers across Burgundy.

In 1804 Baron du Mesnil, newly appointed sub-prefect of Autun, bought a 15-hectare domaine in Volnay, a manor house on the north side of the village and the Clos des Ducs, once land of the Dukes of Burgundy. In 1906 Sem, Marquis d'Angerville, bought the whole estate on the death of a du Mesnil uncle. Through the downturn of the late 1920s and early 1930s he led the move to domaine bottling alongside Henri Gouges and Armand Rousseau, and helped shape the appellation system that followed.

His son Jacques worked beside him after the Second World War, took over on Sem's death in 1952 and ran the estate until his own death in 2003, helped in later years by his son-in-law Renaud de Villette. Guillaume d'Angerville, the current Marquis, left investment banking to take charge and in 2005 put François Duvivier in charge of vines and cellar. Conversion to biodynamics began in 2006 and was complete by 2009. Guillaume also owns Domaine du Pélican in the Jura.

The Reds

Every red is fully destemmed and fermented warm, spending two to three weeks on the skins with pump-overs in place of punch-downs for a gentler extraction. The wines then sit through two winters in barrel, with about a fifth to a quarter new oak on the premiers crus.

  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs The 2.15-hectare walled monopole, vines 40 to 45 years old. Guillaume calls it the "Cistercian" wine of the cellar: reserved at first, then filling out with red fruit over a firm frame. Give it a decade.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Champans The domaine's largest holding, 3.98 hectares beside Caillerets, vines 40 to 45 years old. More open than Clos des Ducs when young, with the firmest frame of the other premiers crus.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 1.07 hectares from the original 1804 purchase, vines 30 to 35 years old. Layered and deep, between the perfume of Caillerets and the frame of Champans.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Only 0.45 hectares, vines 30 to 35 years old; in frost-hit 2021 the whole cuvée fit in a single barrel. The most perfumed wine in the range.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles 1.03 hectares of 60- to 65-year-old vines, the oldest premier cru holding at the domaine. Frost meant no 2016; it returned in 2017.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets 1.57 hectares on the Pommard side of the village, vines 30 to 35 years old.
  • Volnay 1er Cru 0.96 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old premier cru vines, bottled under the premier cru name without a site. The house style, ready sooner than the single-vineyard wines.
  • Volnay 0.49 hectares of village vines averaging 60 to 65 years old. Old-vine Volnay at village price, and the place to start with this domaine.
  • Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus A 0.38-hectare parcel now being replanted, so the wine is on pause.
  • Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir at regional level, farmed biodynamically like the rest of the estate. The lowest-priced way into the house style.
  • Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Pinot Noir and Gamay in the old Burgundian blend. Light, red-fruited and low in alcohol (11.5 percent in 2021); drink it young and cool.

The Whites

Whites are a small sideline at this red-wine house, all from the same biodynamically farmed vines. The Meursault ferments and ages in barrel.

  • Meursault 1er Cru Santenots Chardonnay from 1.05 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old vines, and the domaine's only white above regional level. Like Clos des Angles, it lost 2016 to frost.
  • Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay at regional level, the white counterpart to the Bourgogne Rouge.
  • Bourgogne Aligoté Aligoté from about 0.4 hectares in the lieu-dit Monpoulain, flat land on the eastern side of Volnay. Lean and tart, the counterweight to everything else in the cellar.

Shop all Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (17)

Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.

Burgundy - Cote d'Or


Aligoté is a historic white grape of Burgundy, long overshadowed by Chardonnay but increasingly valued for its freshness and versatility. First documented in the region in the 18th century, it was traditionally used in everyday wines or blended with crème de cassis for Kir. Today, quality-minded producers—especially in Bouzeron, the only communal AOC dedicated to the grape—are showing its potential when grown on limestone soils and handled with care. Aligoté typically offers high acidity, light body, and flavors of green apple, citrus, and subtle herbal notes, making it a crisp, food-friendly alternative to richer white varieties.

Aligote


Certified Biodynamic vineyard farming is a holistic approach building upon organic principles, viewing the vineyard as a self-contained ecosystem influenced by cosmic rhythms. Based on Rudolf Steiner's teachings, it integrates precise agricultural methods with lunar and astrological calendars, using natural preparations from herbs, minerals, and manure to enhance soil and plant health. Certification by organizations like Demeter International requires rigorous inspections to ensure strict compliance. Biodynamic farming seeks not only high-quality wines but also ecological harmony, sustainability, and deeper connections among land, plants, animals, and humans.

Farming - Certified Biodynamic