Erbaluce

Erbaluce is a white grape from northern Piedmont, centered on the village of Caluso in the Canavese hills north of Turin. Its name nods to the golden-pink tint the bunches take on in autumn sun. Erbaluce di Caluso is a rare Piedmontese white with real acidity: dry versions are taut and mineral, with citrus, green apple and herbs; it also makes traditional-method sparkling wine and Caluso Passito, a long-lived sweet wine from grapes dried through the winter. Production is small and largely in the hands of family growers, which makes good bottles a find.