Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Porusots 2023
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The Land
Meursault's reputation runs south, toward Puligny: Perrieres, Charmes, Genevrieres, with Blagny on the hill above them. Poruzots sits on the other side of that conversation, in the northern band of premier crus alongside Bouchères and Goutte d'Or. The climat lies at midslope facing east, on deep clay over the limestone that runs the length of the cote. The clay is the point. It holds water through a dry summer and builds a broader, more layered wine than the thin, stony ground on the Perrieres side of the village. Domaine des Comtes Lafon owns 96 ares here, inside a domaine of 16.3 hectares, which is the plain reason almost nobody has tasted it.
The Wine
Chardonnay, hand-harvested and sorted, gently pressed, fermented with indigenous yeasts in barrel in a cold cellar, taken through full malolactic, then aged 18 to 22 months on its lees. New oak for the premiers crus runs 25 to 40 percent. Batonnage happens only when a fermentation stalls or a wine turns reductive, never on a schedule. 2023 was the hottest year on record in Burgundy and an enormous one, and the whites split on how much crop you dropped and when you picked. A July 11 hailstorm crossed from Saint-Aubin through Blagny into Meursault, which several growers treated as a free green harvest. Lafon was in the small first wave, with Leflaive, Roulot, Ente and Sauzet, picking in the last week of August, roughly ten days ahead of the village. Hazelnut, white peach, lemon oil and oyster shell, broad through the middle, cut clean by salinity, long and dry at the finish. Alcohols across the vintage mostly landed between 12.5 and 13.5 percent.
The People
The Lafons have held vineyards in Meursault since 1865, and Comte Jules Lafon assembled the domaine as it stands, buying its 32-are piece of Montrachet in 1918. Dominique Lafon took over in 1985 and spent eight years pulling every sharecropped parcel back into the family's own hands. He banned synthetic treatments in 1992, began organic conversion in 1995, ran three years of biodynamic trials, and certified the whole estate biodynamic in 1998. Certified, not practicing, and years ahead of everyone in Burgundy except Leflaive and Leroy. Yields have averaged 35 hectoliters per hectare over the past decade. Poruzots and Bouchères arrived in 2011, bought jointly with Domaine Roulot out of the old Domaine Rene Manuel, completing Lafon's set of all six central Meursault premier crus. Dominique retired after the 2021 harvest; his daughter Lea and his nephew Pierre run the domaine now, and the 2023 is theirs.
Food Pairing
Turbot or halibut roasted on the bone with brown butter and capers. Butter-poached lobster with nothing clever done to it. A whole chicken roasted with morels and cream, which is the classic Cote de Beaune answer and still the right one. Or a wedge of 24-month Comte at the end of a long meal. Serve it at 55 degrees rather than colder, in a large glass, and open it 30 minutes ahead — at this level it needs air more than chill. This is the wine you open because someone you love finally came to visit.
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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
