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Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2022

$450.00

We have 2 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

Clos des Ducs is one of the few Volnay premier crus with a single owner, and it sits directly behind the d'Angerville family house at the top of the village. The walls enclose 2.15 hectares, the same 52 ouvrées recorded in 1507, when the land belonged to the Dukes of Burgundy. The slope is steep and well drained, facing south-east, with thin, stony limestone and white marl that keeps the vines lean and the berries small. That poverty is the point. Volnay's lower premier crus build breadth from deeper clay; Clos des Ducs gives a narrower, more mineral Pinot Noir that shows little in its first years and a great deal after ten.

The Wine

The Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2022 is 100% Pinot Noir from vines averaging 40 to 45 years old. The fruit is fully destemmed, fermented warm with pump-overs instead of punch-downs, and aged through two winters in barrel with about a fifth to a quarter new oak. 2022 moved fast: May was the hottest in fifty years, June storms dropped heavy rain around Beaune, and August heat brought the domaine's harvest forward to August 23. Guillaume d'Angerville still calls it an easy, classic year with no heat showing in the wines. In barrel, Bill Nanson of Burgundy Report found this pure and airy, with very fine, nearly grainless tannin and a velvety finish. Plan on eight to ten years before it opens fully.

The People

Jacques d'Angerville ran this domaine for half a century. He joined his father in 1945 at 18 with no formal wine schooling, had charge of all the winemaking by 1952, and did as much as anyone to raise the standing of Volnay. He was known for his rectitude: he once told a visiting journalist that he had used barrels with too heavy a toast on his 1988 Clos des Ducs and would never do it again. He died in July 2003, and his son Guillaume left a finance career to take over. The farming has changed since, with biodynamic conversion begun in 2006 and finished in 2009, but the cellar still works the way Jacques taught it.

Food Pairing

Young Clos des Ducs wants protein with some fat and very little sweetness. Roast a rack of lamb with a Dijon and herb crust, serve it pink with flageolet beans, and let the tannin grip the fat while the herbs echo the wine's savory side. Pheasant roasted with bacon laid over the breast and a chestnut stuffing suits its fine-grained texture. For beef, skip the heavy braise and sear a bavette rare with shallots and a red wine pan sauce. Finish with a slice of aged Comté. Buy it to put away, then open it on a night you plan to spend with one bottle.

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The Producer

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville


The Terroir

One family farms roughly a tenth of Volnay's premier cru land: 11.2 hectares of it, plus a premier cru in Meursault and a sliver of Pommard. The anchor is the Clos des Ducs, a walled 2.15-hectare monopole at the top of the slope directly behind the family house. Its 52 ouvrées measure the same today as in the vineyard's first recorded mention, in 1507. The soil is thin, stony limestone and white marl on a steep, well-drained pitch facing south-east, and it gives a firmer, slower-opening wine than the Volnays farther down the slope.

Champans is the largest holding at 3.98 hectares, followed by Fremiets (1.57) on the Pommard side, Taillepieds (1.07), Clos des Angles (1.03, with the estate's oldest premier cru vines at 60 to 65 years) and Caillerets (0.45). Another 1.05 hectares of Meursault 1er Cru Santenots supply the white. The vines carry the family's own small-berried strain of Pinot Noir, high in skin and natural tannin, which the BIVB has since propagated for growers across Burgundy.

In 1804 Baron du Mesnil, newly appointed sub-prefect of Autun, bought a 15-hectare domaine in Volnay, a manor house on the north side of the village and the Clos des Ducs, once land of the Dukes of Burgundy. In 1906 Sem, Marquis d'Angerville, bought the whole estate on the death of a du Mesnil uncle. Through the downturn of the late 1920s and early 1930s he led the move to domaine bottling alongside Henri Gouges and Armand Rousseau, and helped shape the appellation system that followed.

His son Jacques worked beside him after the Second World War, took over on Sem's death in 1952 and ran the estate until his own death in 2003, helped in later years by his son-in-law Renaud de Villette. Guillaume d'Angerville, the current Marquis, left investment banking to take charge and in 2005 put François Duvivier in charge of vines and cellar. Conversion to biodynamics began in 2006 and was complete by 2009. Guillaume also owns Domaine du Pélican in the Jura.

The Reds

Every red is fully destemmed and fermented warm, spending two to three weeks on the skins with pump-overs in place of punch-downs for a gentler extraction. The wines then sit through two winters in barrel, with about a fifth to a quarter new oak on the premiers crus.

  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs The 2.15-hectare walled monopole, vines 40 to 45 years old. Guillaume calls it the "Cistercian" wine of the cellar: reserved at first, then filling out with red fruit over a firm frame. Give it a decade.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Champans The domaine's largest holding, 3.98 hectares beside Caillerets, vines 40 to 45 years old. More open than Clos des Ducs when young, with the firmest frame of the other premiers crus.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 1.07 hectares from the original 1804 purchase, vines 30 to 35 years old. Layered and deep, between the perfume of Caillerets and the frame of Champans.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Only 0.45 hectares, vines 30 to 35 years old; in frost-hit 2021 the whole cuvée fit in a single barrel. The most perfumed wine in the range.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles 1.03 hectares of 60- to 65-year-old vines, the oldest premier cru holding at the domaine. Frost meant no 2016; it returned in 2017.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets 1.57 hectares on the Pommard side of the village, vines 30 to 35 years old.
  • Volnay 1er Cru 0.96 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old premier cru vines, bottled under the premier cru name without a site. The house style, ready sooner than the single-vineyard wines.
  • Volnay 0.49 hectares of village vines averaging 60 to 65 years old. Old-vine Volnay at village price, and the place to start with this domaine.
  • Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus A 0.38-hectare parcel now being replanted, so the wine is on pause.
  • Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir at regional level, farmed biodynamically like the rest of the estate. The lowest-priced way into the house style.
  • Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Pinot Noir and Gamay in the old Burgundian blend. Light, red-fruited and low in alcohol (11.5 percent in 2021); drink it young and cool.

The Whites

Whites are a small sideline at this red-wine house, all from the same biodynamically farmed vines. The Meursault ferments and ages in barrel.

  • Meursault 1er Cru Santenots Chardonnay from 1.05 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old vines, and the domaine's only white above regional level. Like Clos des Angles, it lost 2016 to frost.
  • Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay at regional level, the white counterpart to the Bourgogne Rouge.
  • Bourgogne Aligoté Aligoté from about 0.4 hectares in the lieu-dit Monpoulain, flat land on the eastern side of Volnay. Lean and tart, the counterweight to everything else in the cellar.

Shop all Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (17)

Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.

Burgundy - Cote d'Or


Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.

Pinot Noir


Certified Biodynamic vineyard farming is a holistic approach building upon organic principles, viewing the vineyard as a self-contained ecosystem influenced by cosmic rhythms. Based on Rudolf Steiner's teachings, it integrates precise agricultural methods with lunar and astrological calendars, using natural preparations from herbs, minerals, and manure to enhance soil and plant health. Certification by organizations like Demeter International requires rigorous inspections to ensure strict compliance. Biodynamic farming seeks not only high-quality wines but also ecological harmony, sustainability, and deeper connections among land, plants, animals, and humans.

Farming - Certified Biodynamic