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Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2023

$273.00

We have 3 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

Part of d'Angerville's Taillepieds is young again. The domaine has replanted much of its 1.07-hectare parcel in recent years, though the vines still average 30 to 35 years, and the parcel has belonged to the estate since the original 1804 purchase. Taillepieds sits on Volnay's steep middle slope, uphill from Champans, with thin, whitish, rock-strewn topsoil over limestone and marl. The ground is poor and hard to work, which caps vigor and keeps yields modest without any help from the grower. That is why Taillepieds is the firm, mineral premier cru of the village, and why it held its tension in a warm year like 2023 when riper sites leaned soft.

The Wine

The Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2023 is 100% Pinot Noir. The domaine began picking on September 5, sorted only lightly, skipped green harvesting and averaged about 40 hl/ha, with alcohol of 13.5 to 14% and pH between 3.5 and 3.7. Everything was destemmed and fermented for 16 to 18 days, mostly in wooden vats, with pump-overs only, then pressed off to finish malolactic in tank before going to barrel with a modest share of new oak. Tasting the whole range for World of Fine Wine, the reviewer named this her favorite of the domaine's 2023s: blackberry and red currant, a streak of fresh herbs and a tight, concentrated, fresher palate than the Caillerets.

The People

When Jacques d'Angerville died in 2003, continuity at the domaine came from inside the family. His son-in-law Renaud de Villette, an agronomist who had worked alongside Jacques for some fifteen years, stayed on to help Guillaume through his first vintages, and the farming knowledge Jacques had built did not leave with him. Two years later Guillaume put François Duvivier in charge of vines and cellar, and in 2006 the domaine began converting to biodynamics, finishing in 2009. The replanting in Taillepieds belongs to that same long view: young vines set in place now so the parcel can keep producing premier cru Volnay for the next generation.

Food Pairing

Taillepieds wants food with some grip and herbs. Grill lamb chops and spoon a parsley and caper salsa verde over them; the herbal streak in the wine meets the sauce. A lentil and wild mushroom ragout with a poached egg suits its earthy, mineral side. Pork chops seared in cast iron with a Dijon cream sauce let its acidity work against the richness. Finish with a slice of Saint-Nectaire. Decant it for an hour if you open it before 2027, then watch it tighten and open over the evening.

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The Producer

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville


The Terroir

One family farms roughly a tenth of Volnay's premier cru land: 11.2 hectares of it, plus a premier cru in Meursault and a sliver of Pommard. The anchor is the Clos des Ducs, a walled 2.15-hectare monopole at the top of the slope directly behind the family house. Its 52 ouvrées measure the same today as in the vineyard's first recorded mention, in 1507. The soil is thin, stony limestone and white marl on a steep, well-drained pitch facing south-east, and it gives a firmer, slower-opening wine than the Volnays farther down the slope.

Champans is the largest holding at 3.98 hectares, followed by Fremiets (1.57) on the Pommard side, Taillepieds (1.07), Clos des Angles (1.03, with the estate's oldest premier cru vines at 60 to 65 years) and Caillerets (0.45). Another 1.05 hectares of Meursault 1er Cru Santenots supply the white. The vines carry the family's own small-berried strain of Pinot Noir, high in skin and natural tannin, which the BIVB has since propagated for growers across Burgundy.

In 1804 Baron du Mesnil, newly appointed sub-prefect of Autun, bought a 15-hectare domaine in Volnay, a manor house on the north side of the village and the Clos des Ducs, once land of the Dukes of Burgundy. In 1906 Sem, Marquis d'Angerville, bought the whole estate on the death of a du Mesnil uncle. Through the downturn of the late 1920s and early 1930s he led the move to domaine bottling alongside Henri Gouges and Armand Rousseau, and helped shape the appellation system that followed.

His son Jacques worked beside him after the Second World War, took over on Sem's death in 1952 and ran the estate until his own death in 2003, helped in later years by his son-in-law Renaud de Villette. Guillaume d'Angerville, the current Marquis, left investment banking to take charge and in 2005 put François Duvivier in charge of vines and cellar. Conversion to biodynamics began in 2006 and was complete by 2009. Guillaume also owns Domaine du Pélican in the Jura.

The Reds

Every red is fully destemmed and fermented warm, spending two to three weeks on the skins with pump-overs in place of punch-downs for a gentler extraction. The wines then sit through two winters in barrel, with about a fifth to a quarter new oak on the premiers crus.

  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs The 2.15-hectare walled monopole, vines 40 to 45 years old. Guillaume calls it the "Cistercian" wine of the cellar: reserved at first, then filling out with red fruit over a firm frame. Give it a decade.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Champans The domaine's largest holding, 3.98 hectares beside Caillerets, vines 40 to 45 years old. More open than Clos des Ducs when young, with the firmest frame of the other premiers crus.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 1.07 hectares from the original 1804 purchase, vines 30 to 35 years old. Layered and deep, between the perfume of Caillerets and the frame of Champans.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Only 0.45 hectares, vines 30 to 35 years old; in frost-hit 2021 the whole cuvée fit in a single barrel. The most perfumed wine in the range.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles 1.03 hectares of 60- to 65-year-old vines, the oldest premier cru holding at the domaine. Frost meant no 2016; it returned in 2017.
  • Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets 1.57 hectares on the Pommard side of the village, vines 30 to 35 years old.
  • Volnay 1er Cru 0.96 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old premier cru vines, bottled under the premier cru name without a site. The house style, ready sooner than the single-vineyard wines.
  • Volnay 0.49 hectares of village vines averaging 60 to 65 years old. Old-vine Volnay at village price, and the place to start with this domaine.
  • Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus A 0.38-hectare parcel now being replanted, so the wine is on pause.
  • Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir at regional level, farmed biodynamically like the rest of the estate. The lowest-priced way into the house style.
  • Bourgogne Passetoutgrain Pinot Noir and Gamay in the old Burgundian blend. Light, red-fruited and low in alcohol (11.5 percent in 2021); drink it young and cool.

The Whites

Whites are a small sideline at this red-wine house, all from the same biodynamically farmed vines. The Meursault ferments and ages in barrel.

  • Meursault 1er Cru Santenots Chardonnay from 1.05 hectares of 20- to 25-year-old vines, and the domaine's only white above regional level. Like Clos des Angles, it lost 2016 to frost.
  • Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay at regional level, the white counterpart to the Bourgogne Rouge.
  • Bourgogne Aligoté Aligoté from about 0.4 hectares in the lieu-dit Monpoulain, flat land on the eastern side of Volnay. Lean and tart, the counterweight to everything else in the cellar.

Shop all Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (17)

Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.

Burgundy - Cote d'Or


Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.

Pinot Noir


Certified Biodynamic vineyard farming is a holistic approach building upon organic principles, viewing the vineyard as a self-contained ecosystem influenced by cosmic rhythms. Based on Rudolf Steiner's teachings, it integrates precise agricultural methods with lunar and astrological calendars, using natural preparations from herbs, minerals, and manure to enhance soil and plant health. Certification by organizations like Demeter International requires rigorous inspections to ensure strict compliance. Biodynamic farming seeks not only high-quality wines but also ecological harmony, sustainability, and deeper connections among land, plants, animals, and humans.

Farming - Certified Biodynamic