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Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Ouille 2024

$72.00

We have 7 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

Domaine du Pélican's Savagnin comes from two Arbois parcels, Au Barby and Grand Curoulet, both on old soils rich in Jurassic marl and what the Jura calls terre de gryphées, marl packed with the fossilized shells of a prehistoric oyster. The distinction matters: the marl in Burgundy is white, while the Jura's runs grey and blue, and the two regions' limestones formed at the same moment before an ancient rift valley split them apart along the Saône. Grand Curoulet faces north on a hillside above the town of Arbois and the plain beyond, exposed and windy, and it ripens later than anything else the estate farms. Cold winters, a short season, and marl that stays wet: this is Savagnin's home ground.

The Wine

Ouillé is the whole point of this bottle. Most people meet Savagnin as vin jaune, aged a minimum of six years and three months in a barrel deliberately left unfilled so a veil of yeast forms across the surface, giving the nutty, curry-spiced, oxidative character the Jura is famous for. Ouillé means the opposite: the barrels are topped up throughout aging, no veil ever forms, and the grape arrives fresh and direct. Here the fruit ferments in 500-liter barrels and ages ten months in neutral 350-liter barrels. Green apple, quince, lemon pith, crushed hazelnut, white pepper, and a hard saline edge, with acidity that lands closer to Riesling than to white Burgundy. 2024 was brutal in the Jura: April frost, a wet spring and summer, and constant downy mildew pressure that pushed yields dramatically low. What survived is concentrated and taut.

The People

Domaine du Pélican started with a blind tasting. Guillaume d'Angerville, whose family runs one of Volnay's benchmark estates, had a standing request at a Paris restaurant: pour me something blind, anything but Burgundy. The sommelier brought a Jura Chardonnay, d'Angerville called it Burgundy, and he went looking for vineyards in the Jura. In 2012 he leased Château de Chavanes in Montigny-lès-Arsures, gaining five hectares of biodynamically farmed vines replanted a decade earlier, and added another five that had never seen chemicals. In 2014, when Jacques Puffeney announced his retirement, d'Angerville took over four hectares of his holdings. That sequence is why this domaine had a serious Arbois vineyard portfolio almost immediately.

Food Pairing

Comté, ideally 18 months or older, is the reflexive Jura pairing and it works because the wine's salinity meets the cheese's crystalline crunch head-on. Chicken thighs braised with cream, mushrooms, and a splash of the wine itself get a lift from the acidity that a richer white would not provide. Grilled trout with almonds and brown butter is the freshwater version of the same idea. For something less Alpine, sear scallops hard and finish them with lemon, or work through a platter of raw oysters. Non-oxidative Savagnin like this is the bottle to keep in the door of the fridge for the nights you actually cook.

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The Producer

Domaine du Pélican


The Terroir

The Jura gets almost twice Burgundy's rainfall at similar temperatures, with more wind off its hills, so when Guillaume d'Angerville went looking for vineyards here he spent three years rejecting sites as too wet, too windy or too exposed. Geologist Yves Hérody judged each candidate's soils and drainage before anything was signed.

The result is 15 hectares in the Arbois appellation, between the town of Arbois and the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures, all within about 2 kilometers of one another. That spacing is deliberate: the estate is farmed biodynamically, and every parcel can be treated within the two-hour window a fresh preparation allows. Roughly 11 hectares are white grapes, Savagnin making up about 60 percent of them; the other 4 are Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. Soils are clay marls with gravel around the Montigny parcels, Bajocian limestone over grey marl in places, and grey and multicolored Triassic marl, studded with fossil shells, at Grand Curoulet. Exposures run from north to south, and the cooler sites give the whites their tension and salt.

Domaine du Pélican exists because of a blind tasting. At Taillevent in Paris, Guillaume d'Angerville, who has run Marquis d'Angerville in Volnay since his father Jacques died in 2003, was poured an Arbois Chardonnay he took for Côte d'Or white. He spent 2009 to 2012 searching the Jura with his Volnay régisseur François Duvivier, who had led the Volnay estate's conversion to biodynamics, and named the new domaine for the pelican on Arbois's town crest.

The estate came together in three pieces of about 5 hectares each: the Château de Chavannes vines in Montigny, signed in July 2012 two months before harvest; Grand Curoulet, bought from natural-wine grower Jean-Marc Brignot; and the vines of Jacques Puffeney, the retiring "pope of Arbois," entrusted to Pélican in 2015. Duvivier manages the domaine with a team based full-time in the Jura. A gravity-fed winery, built in 2020 inside the Clos Saint-Laurent vineyard, won an architecture prize.

Burgundian methods with a light hand: hand harvest, little new oak, about 12 months of élevage for most wines, and topped-up (ouillé) whites alongside the oxidative Jura classics.

  • Arbois Chardonnay Chardonnay grown on Bajocian limestone over grey marl, raised in Burgundian barriques. The entry point to the whites, and the clearest proof of the Taillevent story: Jura Chardonnay made like Côte d'Or white.
  • Chardonnay En Barbi A single-vineyard Chardonnay from En Barbi, clay marl with gravel near the Chavannes vines; first commercial release in 2018. The warmer of the two single-vineyard Chardonnays.
  • Chardonnay Grand Curoulet Chardonnay from the top of the 5-hectare Grand Curoulet parcel on fossil-rich Triassic marl, fermented in foudres and barrels and aged in 500-liter casks with no new oak. A cooler site than En Barbi, so the wine is tighter and more saline.
  • Savagnin Ouillé Savagnin topped up throughout élevage in 500-liter casks rather than left under flor, keeping the grape's fruit and acidity in front instead of the nutty Jura oxidative character.
  • Savagnin Ouillé Grand Curoulet Topped-up Savagnin from grey and multicolored Triassic marl at Grand Curoulet, which, with En Barbi, is one of the estate's two best plots.
  • Savagnin Macération Pelliculaire Savagnin fermented on its skins, an orange wine that takes on oxidative character as it ages.
  • Vin Jaune Savagnin left in barrel without topping up for at least 75 months under a veil of yeast, with the flor culture carried over from Jacques Puffeney's cellar, then bottled in the 62-centiliter clavelin.
  • Brut S Zero Sparkling Savagnin with no dosage, labeled Vin de France because Crémant du Jura rules don't allow 100 percent Savagnin. The base wine rests a year as still wine, then fermenting must is added in bottle to start the second fermentation.
  • Arbois Trois Cépages Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard raised together in Burgundy barrels and foudre rather than bottled apart; the 2020 was 60 percent Pinot Noir, 35 percent Trousseau, 5 percent Poulsard. The house red for the table.
  • Poulsard Poulsard aged only in foudre, keeping the grape's pale color, light tannin and red-fruit lift.
  • Pinot Noir Clos Saint-Laurent Pinot Noir from the limestone clos in Montigny where the winery now stands, fully destemmed, fermented with native yeasts and aged at least 10 months in barrique and larger barrels; first bottled separately in 2018.
  • Trousseau Béranger Trousseau from the 33-are parcel Jacques Puffeney farmed for his Les Bérangères, first bottled by Pélican in 2018. Tiny production from Montigny, the village best known for Trousseau; it needs several years in bottle.

Shop all Domaine du Pélican (6)

Located in eastern France, the Jura wine region has emerged as a notable spot for natural winemaking, drawing attention for its minimal intervention practices. Despite its cooler climate, Jura is currently "hot" in the wine world, particularly for those valuing artisanal approaches. It's distinguished by unique soils like limestone and marl, enriching its wines with distinct minerality. The region champions native grapes such as Savagnin, Trousseau, Poulsard, and Chardonnay, which thrive here. Small-scale production is key, ensuring each bottle reflects Jura's unique terroir and winemaking philosophy, blending tradition with innovation.

Jura