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Domaine du Pelican Pinot Noir Clos Saint-Laurent 2024

$83.00

We have 12 in stock (Inventory is live and accurate)

The Land

Clos Saint-Laurent sits directly behind the winery in Montigny-lès-Arsures, at roughly 350 meters. The soil is éboulis calcaires, scree of Bajocian limestone, lying over grey Lias marl, and the vines planted in it range from 10 to 45 years old. Bajocian limestone is the same Middle Jurassic rock that builds the best slopes of the Côte de Nuits; the two regions were laid down in the same shallow sea and later separated by the rift valley the Saône now runs through. Montigny-lès-Arsures is better known as the capital of Trousseau, which makes a serious Pinot Noir parcel here slightly unexpected. This is the estate's home vineyard in the most literal sense, since the cellar is built into its slope.

The Wine

Pinot Noir in the Jura usually disappears into a blend. Domaine du Pélican's own Trois Cépages is 60 percent Pinot Noir, 35 percent Trousseau, and 5 percent Poulsard, and for the estate's first six years that is where the Pinot went. A varietal bottling did not appear until 2018, and the delay was deliberate: the team was not confident it could handle Pinot Noir outside Burgundy and waited until it was. The wine ages in a combination of Burgundy barrels, 60 percent, and vats, 40 percent, with no new oak anywhere. Sour cherry, cranberry, wild raspberry, dried violet, and a wet-limestone bite, with fine-grained tannin and acidity that runs high even by Pinot standards. 2024 was a punishing year in the Jura, with April frost, a soaking spring and summer, and relentless downy mildew that cut yields dramatically.

The People

Day-to-day work here belongs to François Duvivier, who came over from the d'Angerville cellars in Volnay to run the Jura estate and has spent more than a decade adapting Burgundian training to Jurassic ground. Farming is biodynamic in practice rather than in slogan: low-dose treatments timed to the lunar calendar, soils opened with a plow instead of herbicide, and any plot that gets pulled out sown with green manure for three years before it is replanted. Organic compost goes on periodically to keep the microbial life going. In December 2020 the team moved into new cellars dug into the hillside at the base of Clos Saint-Laurent, the roof planted over so that it runs straight into the vineyard above.

Food Pairing

Duck breast, rendered hard and served rare with a cherry or blackcurrant reduction, is the obvious call and the right one; the acidity cuts the fat and the red fruit meets the sauce. Roast pork loin with prunes plays the same register. Coq au vin built on a light red rather than a heavy one lets the wine sit inside the dish and beside it at once. For something simpler, a mushroom risotto finished with parmesan gives the earthiness somewhere to land. Serve it lightly chilled, around 60 degrees, and it will carry a fall dinner without taking over the table.

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The Producer

Domaine du Pélican


The Terroir

The Jura gets almost twice Burgundy's rainfall at similar temperatures, with more wind off its hills, so when Guillaume d'Angerville went looking for vineyards here he spent three years rejecting sites as too wet, too windy or too exposed. Geologist Yves Hérody judged each candidate's soils and drainage before anything was signed.

The result is 15 hectares in the Arbois appellation, between the town of Arbois and the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures, all within about 2 kilometers of one another. That spacing is deliberate: the estate is farmed biodynamically, and every parcel can be treated within the two-hour window a fresh preparation allows. Roughly 11 hectares are white grapes, Savagnin making up about 60 percent of them; the other 4 are Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. Soils are clay marls with gravel around the Montigny parcels, Bajocian limestone over grey marl in places, and grey and multicolored Triassic marl, studded with fossil shells, at Grand Curoulet. Exposures run from north to south, and the cooler sites give the whites their tension and salt.

Domaine du Pélican exists because of a blind tasting. At Taillevent in Paris, Guillaume d'Angerville, who has run Marquis d'Angerville in Volnay since his father Jacques died in 2003, was poured an Arbois Chardonnay he took for Côte d'Or white. He spent 2009 to 2012 searching the Jura with his Volnay régisseur François Duvivier, who had led the Volnay estate's conversion to biodynamics, and named the new domaine for the pelican on Arbois's town crest.

The estate came together in three pieces of about 5 hectares each: the Château de Chavannes vines in Montigny, signed in July 2012 two months before harvest; Grand Curoulet, bought from natural-wine grower Jean-Marc Brignot; and the vines of Jacques Puffeney, the retiring "pope of Arbois," entrusted to Pélican in 2015. Duvivier manages the domaine with a team based full-time in the Jura. A gravity-fed winery, built in 2020 inside the Clos Saint-Laurent vineyard, won an architecture prize.

Burgundian methods with a light hand: hand harvest, little new oak, about 12 months of élevage for most wines, and topped-up (ouillé) whites alongside the oxidative Jura classics.

  • Arbois Chardonnay Chardonnay grown on Bajocian limestone over grey marl, raised in Burgundian barriques. The entry point to the whites, and the clearest proof of the Taillevent story: Jura Chardonnay made like Côte d'Or white.
  • Chardonnay En Barbi A single-vineyard Chardonnay from En Barbi, clay marl with gravel near the Chavannes vines; first commercial release in 2018. The warmer of the two single-vineyard Chardonnays.
  • Chardonnay Grand Curoulet Chardonnay from the top of the 5-hectare Grand Curoulet parcel on fossil-rich Triassic marl, fermented in foudres and barrels and aged in 500-liter casks with no new oak. A cooler site than En Barbi, so the wine is tighter and more saline.
  • Savagnin Ouillé Savagnin topped up throughout élevage in 500-liter casks rather than left under flor, keeping the grape's fruit and acidity in front instead of the nutty Jura oxidative character.
  • Savagnin Ouillé Grand Curoulet Topped-up Savagnin from grey and multicolored Triassic marl at Grand Curoulet, which, with En Barbi, is one of the estate's two best plots.
  • Savagnin Macération Pelliculaire Savagnin fermented on its skins, an orange wine that takes on oxidative character as it ages.
  • Vin Jaune Savagnin left in barrel without topping up for at least 75 months under a veil of yeast, with the flor culture carried over from Jacques Puffeney's cellar, then bottled in the 62-centiliter clavelin.
  • Brut S Zero Sparkling Savagnin with no dosage, labeled Vin de France because Crémant du Jura rules don't allow 100 percent Savagnin. The base wine rests a year as still wine, then fermenting must is added in bottle to start the second fermentation.
  • Arbois Trois Cépages Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard raised together in Burgundy barrels and foudre rather than bottled apart; the 2020 was 60 percent Pinot Noir, 35 percent Trousseau, 5 percent Poulsard. The house red for the table.
  • Poulsard Poulsard aged only in foudre, keeping the grape's pale color, light tannin and red-fruit lift.
  • Pinot Noir Clos Saint-Laurent Pinot Noir from the limestone clos in Montigny where the winery now stands, fully destemmed, fermented with native yeasts and aged at least 10 months in barrique and larger barrels; first bottled separately in 2018.
  • Trousseau Béranger Trousseau from the 33-are parcel Jacques Puffeney farmed for his Les Bérangères, first bottled by Pélican in 2018. Tiny production from Montigny, the village best known for Trousseau; it needs several years in bottle.

Shop all Domaine du Pélican (6)

Located in eastern France, the Jura wine region has emerged as a notable spot for natural winemaking, drawing attention for its minimal intervention practices. Despite its cooler climate, Jura is currently "hot" in the wine world, particularly for those valuing artisanal approaches. It's distinguished by unique soils like limestone and marl, enriching its wines with distinct minerality. The region champions native grapes such as Savagnin, Trousseau, Poulsard, and Chardonnay, which thrive here. Small-scale production is key, ensuring each bottle reflects Jura's unique terroir and winemaking philosophy, blending tradition with innovation.

Jura


Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned, notoriously difficult-to-grow, low-yielding grape that finds its ancestral home in Burgundy, France, where it produces some of the world's most elegant and nuanced wines. While Burgundy remains its spiritual heartland, Pinot Noir has since traveled the globe, finding success in other cooler climates, notably in California, Oregon, New Zealand, and Germany. This grape is a challenge for any grower, as it requires specific conditions to show its best, and yet the wines it produces are capable of such a captivating and singular character.

Pinot Noir