The Land
Ask about Monforte d'Alba and most people name Bussia or Ginestra. Perno, the hamlet on the commune's eastern flank, is less famous, though Giuseppe Mascarello has long bottled its Santo Stefano di Perno. Ca' di Press works old vines here on sandy clay with a southeast exposure; from the rows, Elio Sandri's vineyards sit just to the south and Castiglione Falletto rises to the northwest. A southeast face catches morning sun and dodges the harshest afternoon heat, which mattered in 2022. The sand in the clay keeps the tannin fine-grained, while the clay holds water through dry summers and gives the wine depth through the middle. This is Barolo from Monforte d'Alba with more lift than the commune's reputation for muscle suggests.
The Wine
Ca' di Press Barolo Perno 2022 is 100% Nebbiolo, fully destemmed and fermented spontaneously in stainless steel with 25 to 30 days on the skins. It rests eight months in steel, then about 20 months in 25- to 30-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks, and another year in bottle before release. Nothing here tastes of new oak. The family describes the 2022 as crunchy-fruited and bright, with tannin in balance. Expect crushed rose, small red berries, orange peel, mint, and sweet spice, with silky, polished tannin and a long, lifted finish. 2022 was a drought year: a dry winter, little spring rain, and sustained heat through July, with Nebbiolo picked from around September 20. The family left extra leaf cover for shade, and they credit the old vines' deep roots with carrying the fruit through.
The People
The family behind Ca' di Press has farmed Perno's slopes since the early 1900s, and for nearly all of that time they sold the grapes, keeping only a little wine for the house. That changed when sisters Alice and Cristina took over from their father, Bruno, and decided to bottle their own. 2018 was the first vintage they vinified at home and sold themselves, and they still vinify only part of the 7.5-hectare holding. The sisters name the Barolos of Bartolo Mascarello and Burlotto as their models, which tells you the style before you pull the cork: destemmed fruit, long fermentations, big old-style casks, and as little intervention in the cellar as possible. Traditional Barolo from a new label with very old roots.
Food Pairing
Decant it for an hour, or cellar it a few years. Brasato al Barolo, beef chuck braised slowly in red wine with onion, carrot, and clove, is the classic match; the rich, gelatinous sauce softens the tannin and the wine's acidity keeps the dish from feeling heavy. Roast duck legs with a porcini and juniper sauce set the rose and spice against something earthy. For a simpler night, a ribeye seared in cast iron and basted with rosemary butter lets the fat tame the grip. Close with a wedge of aged Castelmagno. This is the Barolo to hide away for a birthday five years from now, or to open next weekend if patience runs out.
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